2016 race rules

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Thread: 2016 race rules

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    1,470
    I think more detailed the rules the less decisions the racer has to make. Especially with safety. I think if you went with the main hoop of 1 1/2" and .120 wall you should be pretty safe. My Attex crash roll cage is 1 1/2"x .120 annealed steel and only moved a few degrees when I flipped it. The hard corners made the roll over very jarring.an rung my bell pretty good. The traditional long radius hoops on the Attexes always worked well and should probably be recommended.
    Also minimum seat back height for shoulder belts and neck braces (go Kart type doughnuts) should also be considered.

    Dave Thanks for working on this. looks real good
    Acta non verba

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Shipshewana Indiana 46565
    Posts
    377
    Good work Dave! Thank You for your time and effort.
    http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb478/KaptainKrunch97/Signature_zps2b4e9265.jpg

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Farnham Ny
    Posts
    575
    Quote Originally Posted by jerseybigfoot View Post
    I think more detailed the rules the less decisions the racer has to make. Especially with safety. I think if you went with the main hoop of 1 1/2" and .120 wall you should be pretty safe. My Attex crash roll cage is 1 1/2"x .120 annealed steel and only moved a few degrees when I flipped it. The hard corners made the roll over very jarring.an rung my bell pretty good. The traditional long radius hoops on the Attexes always worked well and should probably be recommended.
    Also minimum seat back height for shoulder belts and neck braces (go Kart type doughnuts) should also be considered.

    Dave Thanks for working on this. looks real good
    Those are great suggestions Jersey we can recommend that but it is up to the driver I mean we will be looking at all cage designs and seats, seat belts cause I never want to see that happen to anyone again.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
    Posts
    2,604
    Shoulder belt mounting is also critical. Ideally they should be mounted at the same height as the drivers shoulders. This is tough in an attv where the frame is the only rigid point. Shoulder belts mounted higher allow the driver to raise out of the seat in a frontal impact, and belts mounted lower than shoulder height can cause spinal compression in a crash.

    I won't argue at all on the 120 wall thickness, and as I said it is just food for thought.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hanover,PA
    Posts
    1,012
    We build dirt and drag cars here at ReWheel. I use .095 on my cages unless its NHRA. then it has to be .120. I would thing the .095 is good for these machines as there not as heavy as a full size car. As long as it is built Rite !! Also remember the frame is Not as thick as the roll bar so the thicker tubing really isn't the weakest link here !
    Mounting should be a key point to look into !!
    Just my input on this as we turn out 10 to 20 cars a year and yet have a cage failure after 29 years !!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hanover,PA
    Posts
    1,012
    I also wanted to ask. I am thinking of building a Racer this winter and was wanting to know what size engine I could use ? Also make best fitted for these ? Is a snowmobile engine a good choice ?
    I ran a 440 Herth in my tiger back in the day . what about a 400 liquid cool engine ??
    Any input would be helpful !
    Also gearing and so on.
    Thanks
    Tj

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Enola, Pa.
    Posts
    677
    Glad I decided to visit the site. Looks like they're gitting serious about the racing saftey. I'll be making some changes to my machine.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Monroeton, Pa
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by wedge View Post
    I also wanted to ask. I am thinking of building a Racer this winter and was wanting to know what size engine I could use ? Also make best fitted for these ? Is a snowmobile engine a good choice ?
    I ran a 440 Herth in my tiger back in the day . what about a 400 liquid cool engine ??
    Any input would be helpful !
    Also gearing and so on.
    Thanks
    Tj
    It would help if we knew what brand atv you are racing and which class you want to race in. A 400 cc liquid would work but would most likely put you in the modified class with 500cc machines.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hanover,PA
    Posts
    1,012
    Well I am open on the motor at this point. I was planning on using a Max II as my platform.
    Was looking at snowmobile engines so that's why I asked.
    I would like as much info as possible like tires,gearing and so on. I know the die hard racer doesn't like to give this info out as I have raced everything from bikes to Sprint car's and am Not new to the racing community ! But as starting point would be of Great help so I can build and travel some distance to just get in the way.
    Any help would be Great !!!
    Thank you
    Tj

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Monroeton, Pa
    Posts
    284
    Hi Tj,
    The max is a good choice, just use inner bearings on the axels and beef up the jack shaft or eliminate it all together. 24 tooth sprockets on the axels from the t-20 is the best for most machines. The new Vandetta tires would be best or knobbys. Tires are really a crap shoot depending on track conditions. Any snowmobile motor can work with the right jetting. I can't be more specific without knowing which class you want to get in. You will find 6 wheel racing is pretty much 60% machine prep and 40% driver. I don't mind sharing some knowledge because the more people who race and are competitive, the better off the sport will be.

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