I'm getting a quote from a guy in MI. From what I've seen, it may cost a few hundred for a spacer. We shall see what he comes back with.
I'm getting a quote from a guy in MI. From what I've seen, it may cost a few hundred for a spacer. We shall see what he comes back with.
You want to ask the weight per foot as well, rubber ain't light. Pressed steel channel may be the better option long term even if the initial work is more.
I did let him know that lighter is probably better. Haven't heard anything back yet. I'd imagine wood would also be a good choice. Cheap, easy to get, easy to work, floats. As long as you don't leave it wet forever, would be a good option.
The trouble with wood is ........................ well .............. it just looks like wood if you know what I mean, it's just primitive.
Rubber is no longer an option. $50 USD per foot. Plus delivery, plus import charges. Would end up being like $1800 by the time I'm all done. That's more than I have into this rig.
Steel C-channel is a good idea. You can make a support that runs to the frame. I told give you the added space you need and eliminates the dreaded, evil, no good, grandma's butt looking tub sag.
If you check out the thread I did on a frame to cure tub sag you could do a similar thing but use "C" channel around the outside. I tied front and rear winch mounts into the frame and front and rear seat supports. All the load from winches / seats is then distributed around the whole vehicle. The frame adds very little weight to it, I can lift it easily with one hand.
Do you have access to a tig welder? it might be better to use an aluminum frame to save on weight. Steel might be too heavy making the machine sink lower, defeating the purpose of the spacer. Maybe try getting thick polyethylene strips from McMaster-Carr and forming them with a heat gun. the have strips 1"x3" 5 ft long.McMaster-Carr
1973 Argo 6x6....23hp vanguard (project in the work)
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