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Last edited by Deedeelin1; 06-23-2017 at 09:57 AM.
See if they are still good - then clean them up if they are.
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Last edited by Deedeelin1; 06-23-2017 at 09:58 AM.
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Last edited by Deedeelin1; 06-23-2017 at 09:59 AM. Reason: moved post out of another thread into this one
Use zip ties to pull the chain tight, Deedee. Also make sure the ratchet chain tensioner is fully in the down position. Jack up and remove the track also if you did not.
Put a half link in it! and later on if chain stretches enough, you can remove it.
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Last edited by Deedeelin1; 06-23-2017 at 10:00 AM.
Don't go half link, BE SURE the tensioners are on the flats (no teeth left) the new style sliders are much larger and usually require the vice grips for initial install of new chains, the 170 chains should go on if the tensioners are that last bit which can be tricky to find. If the other 3 went on it should go if all the way down, also check that a sprocket tooth has not bunched a link.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
Im sure you already did this but when putting the new chains on my machine I had to roll the tires the chain was linking "toward each other" on the top side to pull the chain tight across the bottom to be able to tension them enough to get the master link in. Without doing that a half link would have been needed.
I don't know why Jim thinks half links are bad. Half links aren't a weak link in the chain! We use them all time on High Powdered Machinery with more stress and shock loads on the chains than the atvs. And as I said you can always take it out later!Originally Posted by ARGOJIM
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