Front chains...

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Thread: Front chains...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Wasilla, AK
    Posts
    923
    Helpful to use bailing wire or daisy-chained zip ties through one chain end. Make it long enough so you have an easy-to-grab handle to control the end of the chain around the front sprocket. There isn't much clearance here, and frequently the last link wants to come off the sprocket (because of gravity) and bunch up and not continue the direction you need. It happens when rolling the front sprocket either direction. When it's time to put the master link in, I prefer to bring both chain ends onto the idler axle to help hold them. If you have someone handy to turn tire #2 forward, and tire #1 backward it will bring all of your slack to the top where you are working. The sprocket technique works well because you only need to get the master link started, then you can roll everything and finish installing the master link all the way. Once in a while, the chain tension will flex the master link pins apart slightly, and you need to squeeze them together to get the chain plate holes to fit easily. Hope this helps someone. Fronts can be the only real tricky ones as there isn't a lot of slack in the chain to begin with (machines w/o front tensioners).
    Some machines have additional clearance around the front sprocket and it's much easier getting the new chain started too😀

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
    Posts
    1,456
    When all I'm doing is a chain replacement I break the old chain at the master and link the new chain to it. Keeping tension on both pull the new one in. Also never seen an Argo battery box in front of the firewall that wasn't removable from the factory. I've seen home built ones welded in.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Oshawa Ontario Canada
    Posts
    184
    WooHoo ! Just got Back from the Argo dealer, with a box of shiny new drive chains !! I will start replacing them tomorow. im excited ! I Considered buying rolls of chain and breaking it and creating my own chains, however after pricing rolls of "good chain" ,plus master links, plus shipping, etc. Plus the time factor . (Trying to get the old man out fishing before snow flies) I just didn't think it was worth the amount of money I would've saved. If i had a newer machine, with a single strand chain I could've sourced it from a lot more convenient places.
    "I've yet to encounter a problem that cannot be solved with the right mixture of whiskey and weaponry"
    :ME....


    " From my cold dead hands"
    :Charlton Heston...

  4. #14
    good job,get those chains on and have fun. dont forget to jack up the vehicle and turn the wheels a bit to get the torque out of them. be patient because this stuff is know to drive you crazy haha get it drive you

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Oshawa Ontario Canada
    Posts
    184
    Any tips for easily removing the little clips on the master links ?
    "I've yet to encounter a problem that cannot be solved with the right mixture of whiskey and weaponry"
    :ME....


    " From my cold dead hands"
    :Charlton Heston...

  6. #16
    i assume your talking about those little clips on the end that hold the end plate on,just take a tooth and one of those clips from the new box of chain and play with for a bit to get familial with how they work. i like to use a little fine point flat SD and pry one end off the tooth and just pull down or up to remove it off the other tooth. like i said just play with it for a bit and you will be able to picture how i do it or a different way that you will come up with. start in the rear also they are easier to put on and work your way to the bow. thats where it gets crafty. also notice how there are two plates in the middle and one plate on the end, for the front or hard ones to put on i just use one plate in the middle and one on the end followed by the spring clip.
    anyone against what i said about usuing only one inside plate tell me! is it still strong just with one plate?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Oshawa Ontario Canada
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by curtisbyrne View Post
    . also notice how there are two plates in the middle and one plate on the end, for the front or hard ones to put on i just use one plate in the middle and one on the end followed by the spring clip.
    anyone against what i said about usuing only one inside plate tell me! is it still strong just with one plate?

    I'm no expert, obviously. But ...I don't I think that's a good idea bud, the MasterLink is the weakest point in the chain already, I wouldn't suggest leaving one of those metal plates out. Not to mention I think it may create play in that link and play might create even more weakness. Just a thought.

    Edit: also, I forgot to mention that the chains that I got from the Argo Dealer are tsubaki ! Ive heard good things about them, i think they are a good chain, am i right ?
    Last edited by Kris W; 09-10-2016 at 02:24 PM.
    "I've yet to encounter a problem that cannot be solved with the right mixture of whiskey and weaponry"
    :ME....


    " From my cold dead hands"
    :Charlton Heston...

  8. #18
    yes tsubaki is good quality! so does anyone think thats a safety issue with having just 1 plate on the inside?

  9. #19
    ???

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
    Posts
    7,788
    Yes, use the correct plates as intended. Don't do something different just because they are difficult to install.

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