My first Argo configuration advice and questions.

[scimanstev]

I can't tell you all how much I appreciate your replies. The information you have provided will allow me to configure the best Argo possible. I realize that there will be conflicting views, and that is fine. All of you clearly have a great deal of experience, and I am soaking it all in. The way things are lining up, I expect to place my order in early August. I just had my lawn tractor repaired, so for the next week I will be trying to tame my 5 acre lawn. It is over 2.5 feet high, and requires numerous passes. I am always reading these posts, but may not reply right away as I work during the day, and mow in the evening. I am very pleased that I joined 6x6 World. I will be going with the HT transmission. I don't care about top end speed, just driving through the most severe conditions I can find. There will definitely be snow. I don't yet know what mud conditions I will find in northern New Hampshire, and they close many trails during mud season. To me mud season is the best, but I guess they don't want people getting stuck, or tearing up the trails. Getting stuck in a properly tracked Argo is very difficult. I don't mind axel extensions or track tuners. I am willing to take on all but the most intensive repairs myself.

Again, I am so fortunate to be in a place where I am receiving such excellent advice. I can't thank you all enough, but hopefully I will get a chance to ride with you. If I don't reply over the next few days, I will once I have cleared a few chores.

Steve

[radar]

I wouldn't make a purchase until after the middle of August the 2018's will be coming out there might be something new you like or you might get a better price from 2017

[AlaskaGrizzly]

If you think your tracks will mostly be snow tracks I'd research and determine what the best snow tracks are for you. I don't have the experience to make that recommendation. All I've ever used in the snow have been older Argo brand Super Tracks and the set of Adair Argo 14.5" Pro Series. The super tracks are impressive on flat ground and the amount of snow they will run in. They don't climb well at all. The Adairs do good in firm snow but don't have the flotation of the wider tracks. But, I didn't buy them for running in the snow either.

If I understand correctly the new beadlocks and axles eliminate the need for extensions because you can turn the wheels around and get the offset with them. Seems to me if you want to run track tuners in the middle you just won't turn those tires around and the tuners will offset the tires.

I've never run tuners but they sure look like a good idea for taking some of the stress of your drive chains. If I had a set of Argo 18" rubber tracks or the Beaver Dam Argo tracks I would buy the tuners without a doubt. The track tuners were designed for them.

When I got my 14.5" Adair tracks I called them at asked about tuners. They didn't recommend them and they were right. The tracks don't let the wheels wind up the chains. I do follow the recommendation of putting the largest diameter tire in the front and the smallest in the rear.

[argojosh]

Track tuners cause a LOT of excessive wear and tear on the sprockets and chains, they do more harm to the vehicle than good. Track tuners are especially not recommend if you think of putting the argo under even a very small load. The power is not divided to all 8 wheel but just 4 wheels which can cause axles to warped /snap or chains to snap and I've even seen frames to break/warp. Just set up your tracks like they are supposed to be and you will never have a problem. By the way track set up should be going from front to rear 5-7-7-6 PSI and Smallest-Largest-SecondLargest-SecondSmallest.... maybe that's why some guys on here are having some chain wind up issues... the Argo rubber tracks are the best and just as expensive as the other quality tracks but can also easily get parts and service them.

[Sparx]

I do not recommend the LX model. The stereo, speakers and everything else on the LX model is junk and overpriced. The beadlock rims/tires are awesome during summer but they are wider than the standard Argo rim/tire or reversible rim/tire. They do not fit any track or aftermarket track properly currently on the market. Using the Beadlock rim/tire will cause excessive wear on the tires, track and guides. Brake cooling fan allows you to efficiently use 100% of your braking power all the time or else with no brake cooler it can cause icing(which prevents you from braking/turning). Stay away from Escargo track as they are extremely unreliable and will cause you a lot of damage quickly if there is a mistake. Get yourself a good Avenger 8x8 ST with reversible rims and chevron Argo tires, STD transmission(if you do a lot of road) alternator, heater, full convertible top(not a half top), windshield, rubber tracks, 4x4 trailer, winch, brushguard, upgrade to a brake cooling fan, 1 hour chain oil, outboard motor bracket and you are set for the next 20years minimum. I STRONGLY do not recommend using any tracks with beadlock rims, certainly not the escargo or channel tracks.

You don't need the brake cooling fan unless you run in Low range for extended period of time with an Admiral trans. Why get an Admiral trans if you run in low range, might as well get a Frontier then?
Please keep in mind any track not properly setup will rub through your tub and cause damage, Rubber or Plastic tracks are not exempt from this. I have seen more tubs damaged from plastic and rubber much more then metal tracks because people don't think this can happen, especially on the older non-supported rear framed model Avengers. I have 1000kms on my Avenger without a nick on my tub caused from the tracks. I'm not sure where this guy is coming from the Escargo being unreliable, doubt he even ran one for a day of his life. How can you beat rubber and metal for reliability?

[Sparx]

Track tuners cause a LOT of excessive wear and tear on the sprockets and chains, they do more harm to the vehicle than good. Track tuners are especially not recommend if you think of putting the argo under even a very small load. The power is not divided to all 8 wheel but just 4 wheels which can cause axles to warped /snap or chains to snap and I've even seen frames to break/warp. Just set up your tracks like they are supposed to be and you will never have a problem. By the way track set up should be going from front to rear 5-7-7-6 PSI and Smallest-Largest-SecondLargest-SecondSmallest.... maybe that's why some guys on here are having some chain wind up issues... the Argo rubber tracks are the best and just as expensive as the other quality tracks but can also easily get parts and service them.

Wow, I'd be cautious of this guys' advice. Sounds very biased! I've owned both rubber tracks and Escargo with the tuners and wouldn't go without. Super reliable and actually do the opposite to what this guy claims in regards to wear and tear. Rubber tracks might be the best in the snow but fall very short in many other areas. They are very difficult to turn in high traction grassy surfaces which actually cause more wear and tear as a result in the drive train he is claiming from the track tuners?
Everything he is claiming sounds straight from an Argo book and a common distributor or Argo salesperson comment I hear from dealerships that know nothing about aftermarket Argo parts like track tuners.
It's like going out and saying I've seen more failures from Argo spacers and stud extensions because it's Argo parts because of improper install and upkeep. Everything fails if not properly installed and maintained, and yeah you can get that with anything. No doubt I'm sure you can still break parts with track tuners, not denying that, but to say they are junk?
With Rubber tracks and track tuners I found you had to be spot on track tension in wet environments or they would slip. So get your crap together and add some air to the tires or pull out the steel track spacer. I've seen way too many rubber tracks setup loose with these metal track spacers left in.
With the steel tracks this is nowhere near an issue, basically impossible to spin in the tracks without tearing a lug off. I should know, I did this in a special circumstance I don't blame the tracks one bit for.
There seems to be some hate for track tuners and very rarely have I ever seen it come from someone who's used them. Most come from Argo dealers who blamed any damage found on them, I personally know the one dealer I deal with who frowns against them as well. First hand experience from many with thousands of miles using track tuners in extreme environments turning heavy metal tracks has proven extremely drastic positive results. Funny how that works out? I'm not even sponsored, I just like to tell things the way they are. My chains look brand new by the way, not twisted, worn out and mangled? No bent frames, that's from overspeed abuse, not overtorquing one drive wheel. You would swear an Argo would have to have over 100hp to do that and snap/wear chains in that aspect. Coming on here saying stuff like that with only 7 posts sure seems suspicious. It would be the first time I've ever heard such drastic damage with no visual proof caused by track tuners that would be the opposite to the majority findings on this forum.

[Buzz]

your track only turns relative to the speed of the corner tires. Any variation in circumference of the center tires is felt directly as *increased* load that the machine is forced to overcome, felt primarily by the center chains and the idler chains *at all times* if track tuners are not used. This resistance must be overcome 24/7 .... prior to the corner tires being driven and ultimately driving the track.

*with track tuners*
all axles, chains, and sprockets remain driven and load is transferred on the entirety of the frame.
The power-suck or braking effect of center-tire resistance (and additional tire wear, fuel burn, engine load, center chain stretch)...all goes away.
Anyone who dirt-shoots track tuners does not understand how to propertly set up their machine. The tuners are fantastic devices.

I can't tell you how many times I've seen broken axles and prematurely stretched chains when track tuners are NOT used with a supposed "proper rubber track set-up"
That's just the beginning of the problems
Also, the beadlock reversible rim option is designed especially for track use and works very well. Flipping the rim does not give an exact 2.5" difference in spacing, and small shim washers will need to be used to get corner tires and center tires to line up if track tuners are used. Very easy to do.

[mowbizz]

And the tracks debate rages on....very confusing

[argojosh]

This is my professional opinion based on the years I have worked with/for/on Argos and Centaurs. I am very sorry that my 7 posts is not up to some standards to some people but I have only recently discovered this marvelous website and think that my knowledge could possibly help a lot of people. I am not here to have an argument. I am just here to help and discuss and NOT argue (I have a very open mind) and unless someone can show me some actual physical proof, I don't necessarily believe it. Track tuner don't have a lot of pros versus the cons. Escargo track are a lot heavier, more aggressive and generally do not like the ARGO tubs when they are turning and slip off easy. I have read multiple times that with different tracks or track tuners that you need the proper set-up/tension but what is stopping you from doing it with normally and keeping your machine in an 8x8 configuration and not 4x4? To be honest the best axle extension set up I've seen is the axle extensions sold and made by Les tout terrain in Quebec. Beadlock rim/tires WERE NOT designed for tracks, how can a beadlock rim be designed for tracks? they are made for low pressure. Argo is making changes because the beadlock rims are causing a lot of icing in the colder temperatures and a lot of rubber reversion but have not been released yet. With the classic or admiral transmission, you do not need 100 hp to break drivetrain components. Brake cooling fans help a LOT to keep your brakes cooled when doing a lot of turning. I have not figured out how to send or post images yet but if anyone wants to message me their e-mail, I would be more than glad to send some pictures of the damages caused by track tuners. I am only doing this as a warning and like I said not interested in an argument, we are all adults that can form our own opinions upon what we experience and I'm sorry if some people feel attacked which is NOT intention, like I said, we're adults.

[Sparx]

As mentioned before, with the tracks issue, pick one that suits your needs and wants for how you plan to use your machine. That will directly decide which track would better suit your needs.
First step is to decide if you need them to swim or not, that will easily rule out the majority of the track types out there. Next your type of primary environment you plan to use the tracks on and wether you want to use them only one season or not.
The rubber tracks are a great track but absolutely have no swimming effect, you will need to bring paddles with you. They are more an all around track that don't do much the best but all pretty good. About their strongest point is floatation in snow and all their weak points (hard turning) go away in the snow. They are smooth riding, but require track tension bang on as when they are wet can easily slip out of their guides. I personally had an issue with sidewall flats tub side on the inside 4 tires with stray logs and had to tube all 4 inner tires as a result. Not one flat once on my Escargo with more miles on them, not one track derail either. The Escargo do toss up more overspray especially in the rear of the machine due to the paddles to point out one weakness, even the factory mud flaps won't help, you need to add some on the back bumper.
For winter, the rubber tracks float and ride great over the snow but struggle on the icey and steep hills. Even with the ice cleats it doesn't improve their performance much for hillclimbing, but help to climb up small ice ledges.
The Escargo on the other hand may not go as fast as the Rubber tracks in the snow but have incredible traction with the metal cleats and climb great on ice or hard snow pack. They do slide sideways a bit spooky on icey sidehills without the winter extension kit and are pretty wide with the winter kit on.
So as you can see, you just need to pick the best track that would work for what you need most in your current environment. There are a lot of options and each of them have their strengths and weakness'.