You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
bought a new coil since it was split and showed little spark.got new coil on and no spark whatsoever now.have everything hooked up correctly as far as i can see. checked all fuses and found one 15 amp fuse blown in the fuse block(left side fuse),replaced it and still nothing. spark plugs are near new and had flywheel off while i replaced the coil and all magnets were on good. need some help as of where to start troubleshooting.
Not sure what motor you have but I changed the coil on a Kohler in my lawn tractor.
I installed it upside down at first. No spark. Once I realised my mistake I turned it over and it worked fine.
Upside down looks proper but its not.
This is just a guess, but on a car, I would check the coil wire. Removing and reinstalling my have caused an open condition. The same is true with spark plug wires. I do admit I have never seen the coil or its wiring. I just understand electronics.
well after trying everything still no spark.figured i take another look at the coil and remove it,unfastens the bolts and the coil is split on one side. it was not split when bought by the way. peed off to the max
Possibly yes, as those are just the core laminations, but it would need to be done in a solder bath, with the coil removed. Then you would need to spin it to remove excess solder. It would be a whole lot of effort, and may not work. Since that is a magnetic return path, with just a gap between the laminations, it might not be the whole problem. I would take a multimeter and measure the coil resistance to make sure it is not open. It may be in the specifications of how many ohms it should read.
with ohm meter i put (-) on kill lead and (+) on the lamination's as the manual states and it gave me a good reading which was in the good side. there is another test which you put the leads of your meter on the plug wire ends but i cant seem to get any reading?
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote