Conquest carb jetting

[JohnF]

... Is checking the push rods a complete engine tear down? I am really just not an engine person, its all greek to me.

Nope. A few minutes. Take the valve covers off and take a peek. You can get the service manual HERE to help decipher the greek.

There was a brief 60 second period one of the times I started up the machine at 11,000 ft where it ran more similar to my house at 8000ft. It has some power, and climbed right over a drift that I previously could not get over. When I turned the machine off and restarted, it was back to the slow going. I ran it a dozen times over 2 days and all the other time it was slow and underpowered. Thoughts?

Check to see if it is running on both cylinders. We can troubleshoot from there. This is the pushrod/ignition sort of thing.

Is there somewhere I can take it in for service to get everything looked over to see if its running as it should?

These engines are commonly used on commercial lawnmowers. Might find shop for one that will give it the once over.

I hate to start making modifications if there is just something else going on.

Fair. And smart.

Is it possible that any of this could be transmission related? It likes to pop out of reverse, you have to hold the lever manually in place. It popped out of low gear a few times going downhill too.

Search for popping out of reverse in the transmission forum. This is a not uncommon problem and may require a fix.

To answer the question though, I doubt it.

It's more than just carb jetting.

True. Usually it is carb jetting and clutch tuning.

Your engine should have plenty of power in stock form.

LOL - That's what we all say as we struggle to motivate around at 10k+. 14HP (at best) big tracks big snow = big struggle.

if your stock Kawasaki is running right and your clutches are functioning properly.

There we go...

... there is not an unseen drag somewhere in the drivetrain.

OHH, that one! If the tire diameters inside the track are pretty different you could be losing a great deal of power just scrubbing the inside of the tracks. Tire pressure changes due to temperature changes can have an effect. Put the machine on blocks in neutral (engine off) and see if you can pull the tracks around by hand.

[ARGOJIM]

Blue try to start the engine, let it warm up some. shut it off and unplug front spark plug wire if it starts and runs that cylinder is firing, shut it off and replace wire and remove rear wire see if it starts and runs.
Or you could remove the valve covers and visually look at the push rods/rocker arms and see if one is off.

The Kaw's don't run that noticeably bad when running on one cylinder except under load
.
It sounds as if it either has thrown a push rod or the fuel solenoid is sticking partially closed ( which would make the jet intake smaller than it is) as Thorn wrote.

[ARGOJIM]

Oops your faster than me.

[JohnF]

... or the fuel solenoid ...

Oh that. Stop by Ace on your way home and pick up a M8x1.0 x 12mm bolt. We'll just be removing that thing.

[ARGOJIM]

Oh that. Stop by Ace on your way home and pick up a M8x1.0 x 12mm bolt. We'll just be removing that thing.

or just "nip the tip".

[thorn]

Oh that. Stop by Ace on your way home and pick up a M8x1.0 x 12mm bolt. We'll just be removing that thing.

I have thought about just plugging mine too. Any negative side effects to not having the solenoid going?

[PaSean]

I nipped the plunger off of mine when I first got it. Granted, I only put 10 or 12 hours on it but there has been no negative effects so far. I'm pretty sure it just shuts off fuel flow after you turn the key off to prevent a hot soak starting issue or maybe to prevent backfire when shutting down the engine, but I haven't experienced anything abnormal.

[thorn]

Okay, thanks. I am having an issue with mine flooding out idling at high elevation, but I should start another thread.

[bluebruin]

ok thanks for all the suggestions. that's quite a bit to check. I'll start with the things I can figure out and then get back to you all. thanks

[thorn]

what brand are your tracks? turning was a major issue when I tried it out at the cabin. I just didn't have any power to turn. Chanel tracks made in Canada. They are an elevated belt design. There is a 46 page thread on them under tracks/tires/wheels.

the other owner claims he kept stabilizer in the gas. but who knows. Is checking the push rods a complete engine tear down? I am really just not an engine person, its all greek to me. There was a brief 60 second period one of the times I started up the machine at 11,000 ft where it ran more similar to my house at 8000ft. It has some power, and climbed right over a drift that I previously could not get over. When I turned the machine off and restarted, it was back to the slow going. I ran it a dozen times over 2 days and all the other time it was slow and underpowered. Thoughts?

Is there somewhere I can take it in for service to get everything looked over to see if its running as it should? I hate to start making modifications if there is just something else going on. Is it possible that any of this could be transmission related? It likes to pop out of reverse, you have to hold the lever manually in place. It popped out of low gear a few times going downhill too.

I have Chanel Tracks hand made by a gent in Canada. There is a 46 page thread on them in track/tires/wheels section.