Conquest carb jetting

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Thread: Conquest carb jetting

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    I have the argo in the garage. I took off the air cleaner and removed the carburetor. Unscrewed the fuel solenoid and used a flat head screw driver to pull out the main jet, per the service manual. Its about the size of a small screw, made of brass. It is stamped 104 on the top by the flat head screw slot. Isn't 104 even smaller than the sizes you were suggesting, meaning it should run even better at very high altitude?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    402
    The dealer in Colorado had written in sharpie on my clutch shroud that my machine had a 104 in it, but when I pulled it out it was a 108. Yes, the 104 is the ultra-high altitude jet for that engine, but in talking with the dealership about it they told me that they made some of the engines a bit too lean, which can lead to temperature issues (too hot ) or fuel starved condition. It is better too be a little rich than too lean. I would try a 108.

    Pull the spark plugs out and see what color the burn on the ends are.

    Why you have that off you should remove you valve covers and make sure you have not thrown a rod. They are easy to take off/on.

    Does your solenoid pin move freely?

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    646
    104, yep that's smaller. If it ran at 8K with jet 104 it will only run better at 11k. At 8k you probably want to monitor for running too lean.
    Replace the after-fire solenoid with a bolt.
    And, as thorn has mentioned, check the push rods.
    After that we'll check ignition. You can pick up a spark checker at harbor freight for something like $4.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    are we SURE that replacing the solenoid with a bolt will have no ill effects? sounded like some people had some doubts... What's the benefit exactly?

    here are some photos of my push rods etc

    I can't really tell if they are straight or bent or what. hard to see them. Here is the "front" cylinder facing the front of the argo




    Here is the back one, closest to the cab/windshield.




  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
    104, yep that's smaller. If it ran at 8K with jet 104 it will only run better at 11k. At 8k you probably want to monitor for running too lean.
    Replace the after-fire solenoid with a bolt.
    And, as thorn has mentioned, check the push rods.
    After that we'll check ignition. You can pick up a spark checker at harbor freight for something like $4.
    how do I know if its running too lean? what are the symptoms? It idles and seems to run much better at 8k. At 11k it didn't idle right, kept sputtering out. could not get rpm's low enough to switch gears without it killing.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by thorn View Post
    The dealer in Colorado had written in sharpie on my clutch shroud that my machine had a 104 in it, but when I pulled it out it was a 108. Yes, the 104 is the ultra-high altitude jet for that engine, but in talking with the dealership about it they told me that they made some of the engines a bit too lean, which can lead to temperature issues (too hot ) or fuel starved condition. It is better too be a little rich than too lean. I would try a 108.

    Pull the spark plugs out and see what color the burn on the ends are.

    Why you have that off you should remove you valve covers and make sure you have not thrown a rod. They are easy to take off/on.

    Does your solenoid pin move freely?
    yeah, solenoid pin moves freely.

    here is spark plug from front cylinder

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ontario-Prince Edward County
    Posts
    997
    This is an educational thread. My guess is black and sooty means running too rich. Were you at highest altitude when you last shut it off?
    Pushrods have not slipped out and do not look bent. Engine sure looks clean.
    Last edited by philipatmaxfour; 01-28-2015 at 03:55 AM. Reason: forgot to mention push rods

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    NE Pennsylvania
    Posts
    72
    When I took off my valve covers, 1 pushrod was off of the rocker. The reason was a very tight valve that the spring tension couldn't overcome and resulted in the pushrod falling out of place. it wasn't bent, but the valve was hanging open a little and my engine had very low power. Depending on how old that spark plug is, the black residue looks like a bit of oil and since the electrode and electrode porcelain are so clean, I'd say it's been lean and maybe running a little hot because of being lean. A proper fuel ratio should show up on a spark plug with sort of a gray or brown color on the porcelain. I'd also double check that the correct spark plugs are in your engine, wrong heat range can cause issues too.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    646
    The solenoid's actual name is anti-afterfire solenoid. Its purpose is to stop the flow of fuel at the same time that ignition is turned off so that the inertia of the engine doesn't pull fuel/air through the engine as rotation stops and result in an afterfire. You probably won't experience an afterfire anyway but you an mitigate by letting the engine idle and cool a minute or so. Besides, afterfires don't hurt anything.

    See THIS EXPLAINATION. (the solenoid purpose fits in the delayed ignition category)

    And yeah, I know the pin moves freely. Until it doesn't and plugs you up. When that happens flip the choke on and take your time until you get to the tools and replace the solenoid with a bolt. (or do the snip). (bolt's cleaner )

    The spark plug doesn't look all that bad. Maybe a bit lean. Might need the 106 for 8K. (I knew Argo was being conservative with their jetting but didn't have the time to do the experimentation.)

    But my reading: The base ring has soot that I would guess means that idle is too rich. The insulator is off white and the electrode doesn't look too rounded so at higher than low idle (the high idle circuit of the carburetor - it has two circuits) it is running somewhere pretty close to where we we want. Do google "reading spark plugs" though as this is not my science.

    Your pushrods look good. Like PaSean said, when they are bent they fall out from under the rocker.

    You probably need to adjust low idle mixture at higher elevation and you probably need to look at your clutch tuning.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Wasilla, AK
    Posts
    923
    I would do a few things first, maybe you have already?

    compression test + leakdown test
    confirm output of fuel pump (within spec)
    If these prove to be okay, I would move on with confidence.

    Also, does your machine seem to use any oil or do you notice black smoke under heavy load?

    FYI-I would try to avoid backfires on shutdown.

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