conquest clutch rebuild parts

[JohnF]

I'm going through my new '98 conquest and cleaning everything up. I thought I might pull out the clutches and rebuild them in the manner suggested by Rock Doctor here.

I've looked at the service and parts manuals and see that there aren't too many parts that appear need replacing in a rebuild. Does anyone know if there are kits?

What would you replace? Springs, nylon buttons, bushings, keys, weights-blocks,... ?

RD - you mentioned that you were waiting for parts to do a rebuild, what did you replace?

Part #s 127-71 (driver clutch) 126-24 (driven clutch)

And it looks like the only spot to get lube is the cam area of the driven clutch, right?

[Roger S]

Whatever the weights sit in (blocks, pucks, shoes) is what I tear up. They crack, and the lead weights spread them and the weights get worn and deformed. If it all looks good I guess there's no need to replace them. The shoes are shaped slightly different, one end goes up. I bought a new drive clutch because the bushings were worn a little.. I could see a little wobble in the shiv that moves as it ran. Couldn't figure out a way to machine and make new bushings economically.. they're not made to service, and the shaft had a thou or two wear. The shoes are $5 a piece, think the weights are $10+. If they are cracked at all, replace them. Get some fine graphite powder, and before you screw the cap on RD's mods, dump a couple table spoons of graphite in there in the spring chamber, for bushing lube. I'm proud of that trick I rub graphite all over the shoes and weights, everything that moves or slides. I think the stock spring might get weak with age, lowering the working engine rpm. RD's shim improves this and also improves downshifting.

The trans cvt unit.. all I do is index the spring in the 7? different holes. Mine came stock in #2. Moved it to 4 or 5 and it geared up much quicker. But it's back in #2 now. Depends on your rig, hp, torque curve, tires, altitude.. something you can play with. The shim stack in between the shivs can be lessened, moved to the inside. That will make the belt ride higher, = lower geared at beginning. I havn't done that, and it will also tighten the belt maybe making the tranny grind into gear.

[JohnF]

Looked over the parts page again and here is what I imagine to be the most a person would buy for a rebuild assuming the other parts are not broken and that the whole clutch isn't so worn that the whole should be replaced.

Driver clutch:

V10-48-105-17 spring, main (1)
C24-L1 *spring, anti-noise (3)
C13-266 weight, 266g (3)
0130-3002 block, red (3)

*The anti-noise springs fit behind the weights according to the picture. I don't recall seeing anything about them in the service manual or here.

Driven clutch:

ACS-3-188 spring, blue (1)
AMB-2 bushing, bronze (1)
ANS-2-T shoe, cam (3)

These things are so simple I will take them apart just to inspect them. I'll pay close attention to the blocks/weights (thanks Roger) and the cam shoes (as per the service manual). Springs do loose strength with use but I have no idea what this would mean with these springs. (about 250 hours use and 11 years in the clutch)

Get some fine graphite powder...

Hey, another good place for graphite is inside the twist grip. My throttle was sticking WOT pretty bad so I opened it up, cleaned it up, and dumped some graphite inside the grip - on the floor - on the seat - on my clothes - all over my hands - and a little on my face for good measure. It works great now.

[Rock Doctor]

I think you have it covered there, but I don't have my parts book with me to check (I'm at work).
Should'nt have to change the weights in the primary, unless damaged.
I find that lubricating the Clutch's is very important in allowing the clutch's to "Backshift". For me, when I start to notice a lack of performance, often it's just a need for lube on the clutches (Graphite Spray).

[Roger S]

They may have done away with those anti rattle springs, the last weight I bought didn't have a hole to accomodate it.

[JohnF]

The weights are drilled. I weighed them: 224, 226, 227 grams. These weights do have the little springs but boy are they in bad shape. Looks like they kinda get crammed up into the weight.

The blocks show wear but are not cracked or broken. The tops of two of the weights looked peened so they are touching on the outside.

Driven spring in hole 3.

Had an interesting moment a couple weeks ago backing off of the trailer. I was trying to creep down and about halfway the clutches let go. Wonder now if the light weights might be part of that.

[Roger S]

Lighter weights will let the engine's clutch let go of the belt at a higher rpm if you're doing compression braking, I found that out. You'll probably just have to experiment and see how it drives. I didn't shim my spring, I lightened the weights. I think the results are similar. You being at altitude could use a higher operating rpm.

[Roger S]

You may know this already, but argo sold two different weight sets, one heavier than the other.

[JohnF]

Lighter weights will let the engine's clutch let go of the belt at a higher rpm if you're doing compression braking, I found that out.

Yeah, me too.

You'll probably just have to experiment and see how it drives. I didn't shim my spring, I lightened the weights.

What is the mass you settled on?

You may know this already, but argo sold two different weight sets, one heavier than the other.

I've seen reference to 266g and 260g. Are these the two you are talking about?

[JohnF]

I think the results are similar.

You've got my inner nerd thinking with this statement. My gut is telling me this isn't true and here's why:

Centrifugal force is proportional to RPM squared.
Shimming the spring changes the force of the spring linearly.

So I imagine that changes to weights causes effects that are more RPM sensitive, that is, the force curve changes shape on the RPM scale, and spring changes translate the force curve up or down the RPM scale, same shape just in a bit of a different place.

Over all, I would expect spring changes to have a finer granularity when all you want to adjust is the operation RPM range.

But like you said, a person has to drive it.