Conquest Big block Kawasaki Upgrade

[JohnF]

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Okay, the first pic is to show the parts I used.

The hose at the top is 15 feet of Gates Barricade 5/16 fuel injection hose. This can be expensive but I watched ebay and a NAPA store ran some through on a deal. The number on the side of the box is H357. I don't show it but I also bought some good rubber 1/4 inch fuel hose for the fuel return line. 12 feet.

Clockwise is a [15-04935 7005 FUEL TANK ACCESS ELBOW] that I got from a place called California Power Systems but the package came from Aircraft Spruce. Next to it is a bit of clear fuel line I intended to use on the end of the elbow down in the tank but I didn't. It has a 1/4 hose barb on one end. You drill a 1/2 inch hole, pop the grommet inthe hole and then push the elbow into that. This is for the fuel return line.

Then the fuel pump all dressed up for install. On the suction end I installed a fram G22 filter.

Next (still clockwise) is the fuel pickup tube from the tank and the fuel pickup I replaced it with. This is Argo part 608-84 which gives me a 5/16 barb, no pickup screen, and a pickup tube that is too long. I held the original to the new and cut it off. This gave me a bit of the black tube that I used on the fuel return.

And last is injector hose clamps. I got 10 off ebay.

Hmm, I forgot to put the bosch high pressure filters in the picture but I also got some high pressure fine filters (set of 4 Bosch 0450905002) that I will install as near to the engine as I can.

That last picture is everything installed. You can see where I installed the fuel return; it's not in the way of anything, that spot is flat, and you can get to it with a drill.

I used 10-24 screws to hold the pump to the tube.

[shot410ga]

It seems like a lot of work to upgrade for a few HP. Especially, when you can still buy the original engine and drop it in.

[JohnF]

It seems like a lot of work to upgrade for a few HP. Especially, when you can still buy the original engine and drop it in.

An easy and inexpensive 15% increase in HP can be done by converting your FD620D to an FD661D. There is a thread in the engine forum about this.

This is a 35%-45% increase in HP. Roughly sea level performance at 10K ft. It should be much easier for me to crawl around on the trails near me.

FD620D sea level 20HP @10k 14HP
FD661D sea level 23HP @10K 16HP
FD750D sea level 27HP @10K 19HP
FD791D sea level 29HP @10K 20HP

REF: An online BHP calculator

I do know that when I take the machine to the ranch in Nebraska (2Kft elevation 19HP) it is a much different machine. Easily climbing, turning, etc. so I know 19HP would be awesome.
Where I live (6Kft 16HP) I don't experience problems putting it on the trailer and moving it around the house but I can't really work it out so I don't have a feel for the 16HP point.
But at 8K or more (14HP and yes, with smaller CVT weights) it gets to be a drag. I can move and jerk around turns but I spend a lot of time in low gear. (I do have the G transmission)

But you are right, it is not for everyone.

[mightymaxIV]

Hey, I am enjoying this post but I already have the FD750D motor in my MaxIV. My question is: are there any performance parts made for the FD750D. I would like another 15 horse power or so. Does anyone know how to modify the governor so I can get this engine to rev to 5000 rpm?

[JohnF]

I hinted that I planned on installing the alternator in the wiring post so here it is.

The brackets for installing the alternator on the FD620D won't work on the FD750D engines for a couple of reasons:

1. It would cover the one accessible oil drain.
2. The length of the crank is longer and it shows in the flywheel position.

Since the flywheel is pushed out on the FD750D engine, it is a lot busier in the area under the radiator and around the flywheel.

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First up is the pulley and that is a picture of the FD750D with the fan belt sheeve from the FD620D that has the pulley standoffs integrated. It appears to be a standard thing for the FD620D engines. This won't work because it holds the pulley too far out and we wouldn't have clearance to install it into the Argo.

The pulley is the alternator pulley from the conquest alternator kit. I will be reusing everything but the brackets from that kit.

You will need about 2ft of 1/2 x .083 steel tube. I bought 03-02710-2 4130 STEEL TUBE 1/2X.083 2FT for $8.00 US from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty CO.

I made three spacers that were .45 inches long and bought 3 shorter bolts (shorter than the 3 bolts from the FD620D) and installed the pulley onto the the flywheel. I apologize that I can't remember the bolt lengths but they are M8x1.25 bolts. I did go to the effort of attaching a dial caliper as I installed this to get it as concentric as I could. I do believe that it is worthwhile to get this as centered as possible.

Okay, next up is figuring out how to bolt an alternator to the engine. This engine doesn't leave a lot of options as it seemed that nearly everywhere I went I was in the way of something.

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This picture shows the FD620D lower bracket bolted to the FD750D. I took a lot of pictures so that I could ponder while sitting in the warm house. You can see that I took the radiator off in this picture and that was done for contemplating and the killing of cardboard. Yes, a bunch of cardboard died in the making of this post.

The important part of the picture isn't obvious but notice the unused boss just above that bracket and the two bolts holding on the plastic flywheel cover at the bottom. There are steel bushings inside the plastic [important!].

Hmm, If I use those <sound of snipping cardboard> :

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When I envisioned this part I was thinking 1/4 inch material and using nuts where the empty threaded holes are. That's 1/2 inch because that's what I had. I think it was a neighbors welding table as the surface was ground on and there were welding bits. If it looks like I cut it out with a torch that is because I cut it out with a torch. I did spend some time on the curve that is the lower right part of that bracket so that it matched the higher bracket exactly so that you can match drill those threaded holes.

Using that tube I mentioned above you need 2 spacers that are 1.5 inches and one that is 1.85 inches. The lower bolts are M8x1.25x75 and the upper one is m8x1.25x80. I would have used nord lock washers here but could find them when I wanted them so there are also split lock washers in there.

Want to make one?

[well shoot, I have scaled template in PDF but can't attach it here. I'll converse with Mike for a solution and then edit when I know]

Using the template: I covered the holes that are used to attach the outer bracket because you are supposed to match drill the brackets together. print and check that the scale is right - cut it out - attach to your metal - and cut/drill what you see.

[JohnF]

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That is the finished bracket that the alternator attached to. 3/16 steel. Kind of strange looking at the picture because the shiny spots make it look a little different than it really is. At the top of the slot is a small metal tab with a hole in it for the tensioning screw.

hmm.
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Okay, you can see (this is the FD620D) how the upper bracket has a tab for the tensioning screw.

Because my bracket wraps around the back side of the alternator I couldn't bend a tab here. You'll see.

Right in front of that is shiny because I had to grind off the weld bead. Whoops. It created a clearance issue with the tensioning block that I forgot about when I welded it up. Don't do that.

I did intend on just bending the pivot side of the bracket but the cardboard template maker didn't account for the material thickness and I had to weld it up. Actually, I think welding it is an easier approach anyway.

The three installation holes are match drilled to the inside bracket. The slot I made by putting the alternator in the bracket and carefully, with a bit that doesn't ruin the threads, marked center holes while pivoting the alternator in the bracket. Then, with the alternator off, drilled through on the press and cleaned up with a dremel tool.

Anyway, when it is done it looks like:

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Spacers: 2 9/16 inches.
Bolts: M8x1.25x90 but 85 is the right length. I couldn't find them. 90 works fine.

Install the inner bracket first because you cannot install the middle bolt when the outer bracket is installed.

Attach the alternator to the outer bracket before installing because you cannot when the bracket is installed. Everything is in there pretty tight.

The belt is the L-319 that came with the alternator kit.

I did some mock ups and really feel that there is clearance for this in the Argo. Fingers crossed. I do anticipate that I might have issues with the brake cooling air hose. Another reason it makes sense to use the kit ArgoJim mentioned.

[I'll attach the scaled template for this bracket here when I know how]

I show the installation holes on this on just to give you an idea where I put mine. The only critical part is that you don't put the upper hole such that you can't get to the tension screw when you are done. I've marked that with an X.

To match drill you match up both brackets at the common curve. They fit pretty well. I drilled the middle hole first to 7/32 and then remembered that I use 3/16 rod for pins. So, I turned that drill bit upside down and used it to pin the middle hole and then did the other two holes 3/16. That's why it looks bigger. I meant to do that.

Oh, by the way, I think this could be installed without taking the radiator off, you know, if your engine is already installed.

And oh yeah, I did not paint it. Nobody look. I was contemplating the fact that the bracket is the negative side if the alternator circuit and what to do about it after the install you see in the picture, which was supposed to be yet another fitment test install, when I noticed that it was installed and would work just fine mechanically and electrically... and it was already installed. So, if you paint or powder coat it you will have to ensure you have a ground path for proper functioning of the alternator.

[Nubs]

Nice work there.

[rodp]

Nice work, lot of thought / trial and error went into it I assume ? Just as a matter of interest (these things go through my mind) does it matter which way an alternator spins?

[JohnF]

Thanks guys!

... lot of thought / trial and error went into it I assume ?

Kept me from camping out in front of the TV. Made a few cardboard mock ups.

... does it matter which way an alternator spins?

It can operate in either direction.

[rodp]

It can operate in either direction.

Thanks for the info John, my mind comes up with the most abstract questions at times