New (to me) Argo up and running

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Thread: New (to me) Argo up and running

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Alto MI
    Posts
    611
    are those early mud-ox tracks?
    Kevin Hough
    TREBMASTER
    (____>
    .OOO

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northern BC
    Posts
    2,990
    Quote Originally Posted by trebmaster View Post
    are those early mud-ox tracks?
    I will go out on a limb and say NO. These tracks are about 13yrs old, as I was told.

    RD

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Westlock Alberta Can.
    Posts
    18

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by Rock Doctor View Post
    Well, I went and picked it up, the thing was Massively rusty under the floorboards. Looked like it was left outside with the plugs in for some time. The engine would not run worth a crap (would only run if half choked), the gas in the tank was brown, the left side Idler sprocket was so far out of alignment that half the teeth were gone from the Drive sprocket.The valves needed to be set, plugs changed, winch cable was a rats nest. Tracks were frozen lumps burried in a snowbank, ect, ect. It's not as new as I was told, I have it pegged as a '97.

    The good thing, as best I can tell, is that it was mostly rebuilt just prior to it being left out to the ellements. Bearings are all solid, clutches and brake disks pulled off the shafts with ease (fresh Anti-Sieze on shafts). It came with a new carb, fuel pump, and fuel lines still in the box. Chains are rusty, but not stretched (new). Also got a 100ft roll of 2-50 chain. Chain tensioners and wear pads apear new as well. The guy also had MOST of a set of "Supertracks" kicking around, and told me that I could have those with the Argo as well.

    I have put a few hours into it, and so far I have :
    Serviced everything.
    Changed the fuel, pump, filter and fuel lines.
    Changed SP's and set valves
    Changed the carb and springs
    Changed out the Brake Disks and the Idler Chains
    Rebuilt and modified the Clutches
    Installed the tracks (Weird Rubber Tracks, must be aftermarket, kind of a flat belt with V shaped treads)
    Changed Tappet Cover Gaskets.
    Adjusted the brakes



    This thing is running fantastic now, better than my other one. Also noteworthy is the lack of noise from the trans, compared to my other Conquest, this one is in "wisper mode"

    I can't post pics right now (I'm at work, and keep getting a fail to upload, probably has to do with our firewall). I will get some up later.

    One thing I'm a little worried about is what I'm going to be in for when I have to change Axle Bearings and Idler Bearings. Even the nuts and bolts on the bearing carriers are very rusty. Is there a product that any of you guys know of that I can put on the rusted axles, Sprockets, bolts, ect that will.................remove, disolve, eat, vaporize, or just get rid of the rust? I've already tried to move a few of the axle sprockets, and they will not budge.......at all, so I can just imagine what it's going to be like to do the bearings on this thing, when they fail


    RD

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Westlock Alberta Can.
    Posts
    18
    Hey Rocdoc. All I`ve ever used is break fluid on the rust overnight, It`s more synthetic than liquid wrench then a little heat might have to tap a bit but mine was on for twenty years slid right off eats rust good little emery cloth good to go.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northern BC
    Posts
    2,990
    Never heard of that, but I will give er a shot. Actually, if I can remember, I would like to try several of the mentioned methods on different axles. That way I can find out just what is the best for my application. Hopefully it will be a while before I have to do any of them.

  6. #26
    Hi RD,

    Did some research a while back and found a site which actually had test results for pentrating fluilds. The market types were all out performed by a ATF/acetone mix of 50/50. Used it myself on my 84 argo being replacement. Out performed anything I have ever used before. I will try and find the site site name and post.

    Newf

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Newfy Moose View Post
    Hi RD,

    Did some research a while back and found a site which actually had test results for pentrating fluilds. The market types were all out performed by a ATF/acetone mix of 50/50. Used it myself on my 84 argo being replacement. Out performed anything I have ever used before. I will try and find the site site name and post.

    Newf
    Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker. Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
    Penetrating oil ..... Average load
    None ..................... 516 pounds
    WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
    PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
    Liquid Wrench .... 127 pounds
    Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
    ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northern BC
    Posts
    2,990
    Your timing is crazy Newf. I just had my wife pick up a case of PB Blaster yesterday (she was out of town), and I already have "Liquid Wrench" and "Kroil".

    Interesting that PB Blaster only made it to the middle of that list, it makes me wonder what "Scientifically Rusted" means. Thanks a bunch for the info, I think I'll try them all.

    RD

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