Avenger with runner track-confirming chain tightness

[DerekF]

Hi Guys,

I have searched the posts and got the sense that with my 05 Avenger, running rubber tracks, that the chains will be tight on the bottom, not the top like they would be without the tracks on. I have tried different tire pressures and have the tires set up correctly (big in the middle, reversed) and have let the tensioners right off, but the chains tighten up again, always on the bottom.

BTW, I have the new style tensioners also.

So is this the norm with rubber tracks? And if it is, can anybody tell me why it is like this?

Derek

[Mike]

Maybe I'm misreading your questions but the chains should be tight on the same side of the sprocket with or without tracks. One sprocket will be the drive sprocket and the next will be the driven. The drive sprocket will pull the chain that in turn pulls the driven sprocket. That is why the chains will always be tight on one side. I don't have an Avenger but thinking out loud since the motor and trans are in the front I would assume the front axle is the drive sprocket and the following three are driven. So the chains should be tight on the top because the front sprocket is pulling the chain forward on the top.

Rear driven machines like a Max IV are opposite because the rear sprocket is the drive sprocket that pulls the chain from the bottom so the bottom half of the chain is always tight. Either way it shouldn't be an issue. Is that what you were asking?

[pvisscher]

Hi Derek,
I think I can help you out. The tire sizing is important to get right. If you've got the large tires in the middle, then make sure your tire pressure is 4, 6, 6, 5 (front to back). Even more important than tire size and pressure is track tension. It is difficult to quantifiy track tension, but typically the track should sag about 3-4 inches below the middle tires if the machine is elevated. This is usually accomplished by adding the track extension (part number 825-57) which makes the track about 2 inches longer. Older track kits (pre 2007?) may not have this part included, but it really is critical to achieving a good track setup. If done correctly, the driveline loads are reduced dramatically, ensuring good component life. Hope this helps!

[liflod]

Also, you need to check chain tension with the tracks (tires) off the ground to even out the tension top and bottom.

[DerekF]

So, I did what you guys suggested. I jacked up the machine, adjust pressure to allow slack. Tried it out in the local swamp. I have to say, tracks are unbelieveable. It was a combonation of rotten ice and swamp mud and the tracks did not break a sweat. Last year I took the machine in there with my vampire tires and I did not get stuck, but it was a close one for sure. tracks, no problem at all.

thanks again for the help all!

Derek

[chinook]

I took my extensions out, I didn't like how the tires would try and climb out of the tracks when turning. The chain tension is something I been working with too, I have to zip-tie mine down or they will eat through the teflon blocks in only about 10 hours run time. Since last fall I took all my tires off and measured them, finding a lot of difference in size. I have since followed the recommendations in the book about matching sizes and putting larger tires in the middle. I'm also trying some extra thick teflon blocks, made of a different teflon material, they're dark blue in the back. Don't have enough hours on them yet to give an option.

[DerekF]

Last night I went out with the tracks, put about 30kms on the machine, all on ice with minimal snow cover. It was mostly straight going about 22-28kph. (I was setting my nets in case you wonder.)

Track set up seemed to be okay. Run through 2 teflon tension pads, but I think that may have been due to my front tire lug nuts coming loose and the track tension was all messed up.

I am going to try tying the tensioners down.

Where did you get blue tensioners?

Derek

[chinook]

I wish I knew, they were in the Argo (under the seat) when I bought it. I had them on the shelf for 3 years until I got tracks for the new one. I remembered them only after I ate through the stock set. To some degree they look home made, they are not curved, just a simple rectangle. I'm at work or I would add a picture.
I'll mention that I only saw the need to remove the 2" track extensions in the summer when turning on dry or gravel surfaces.