New (to me) Argo up and running

[Rock Doctor]

Well, I went and picked it up, the thing was Massively rusty under the floorboards. Looked like it was left outside with the plugs in for some time. The engine would not run worth a crap (would only run if half choked), the gas in the tank was brown, the left side Idler sprocket was so far out of alignment that half the teeth were gone from the Drive sprocket.The valves needed to be set, plugs changed, winch cable was a rats nest. Tracks were frozen lumps burried in a snowbank, ect, ect. It's not as new as I was told, I have it pegged as a '97.

The good thing, as best I can tell, is that it was mostly rebuilt just prior to it being left out to the ellements. Bearings are all solid, clutches and brake disks pulled off the shafts with ease (fresh Anti-Sieze on shafts). It came with a new carb, fuel pump, and fuel lines still in the box. Chains are rusty, but not stretched (new). Also got a 100ft roll of 2-50 chain. Chain tensioners and wear pads apear new as well. The guy also had MOST of a set of "Supertracks" kicking around, and told me that I could have those with the Argo as well.

I have put a few hours into it, and so far I have :
Serviced everything.
Changed the fuel, pump, filter and fuel lines.
Changed SP's and set valves
Changed the carb and springs
Changed out the Brake Disks and the Idler Chains
Rebuilt and modified the Clutches
Installed the tracks (Weird Rubber Tracks, must be aftermarket, kind of a flat belt with V shaped treads)
Changed Tappet Cover Gaskets.
Adjusted the brakes



This thing is running fantastic now, better than my other one. Also noteworthy is the lack of noise from the trans, compared to my other Conquest, this one is in "wisper mode"

I can't post pics right now (I'm at work, and keep getting a fail to upload, probably has to do with our firewall). I will get some up later.

One thing I'm a little worried about is what I'm going to be in for when I have to change Axle Bearings and Idler Bearings. Even the nuts and bolts on the bearing carriers are very rusty. Is there a product that any of you guys know of that I can put on the rusted axles, Sprockets, bolts, ect that will.................remove, disolve, eat, vaporize, or just get rid of the rust? I've already tried to move a few of the axle sprockets, and they will not budge.......at all, so I can just imagine what it's going to be like to do the bearings on this thing, when they fail


RD

[garbie]

A co-worker of mine swears by "plus gas". I like my own concoction of diesel fuel and ATF oil. I use to use it all the time and was cheap as could be. Lately have used kleen flo honey goo, but am not sure of its penetrating ability.

[plott hound]

nothing works better then "PB blaster",spray that stuff on liberally and let it sit for a day or 2.you will be amazed at the result.

[JohnF]

Well, you can use electrolysis. Your rusty parts are already in a tank. Fill it with electrolyte, apply low voltage, and your rust will be gone.

Of course this would mean you have to remove engine/transmission/everything not rust...

PB Blaster has worked for me as well - especially given some time (resoak) and during the heat of the year.

[Rock Doctor]

I can't find any PB Blaster here

Is there a Manufacturer I should be looking for, or an "Active ingredient" that some other spray also contains?

I think I have time, before bearings start to fail, I'm thinking this Argo had all bearings done not long before it was left out. When I greased everything I did get some water coming out the seals.

I was told that repeated applications of "Iodine" over time will loosen up any coroded exhaust bolts on an engine, I don't know how it would work on axle shafts though

Any guesses on the tracks? Pretty hard without pics, I know, but I'm sure they are not from ODG.

RD

[mike bar]

Good stuff RD, what size engine in it? load the pics. to us. I hear everyone talking about pb blaster on here. I have to know, what does the pb stand for?

[Rock Doctor]

Good stuff RD, what size engine in it? load the pics. to us. I hear everyone talking about pb blaster on here. I have to know, what does the pb stand for?

It's the 20 HP Kawi. I have a bit of a delema now, I bought this thing knowing it had engine troubles, and was thinking that I would just drop my new 27HP Kawi in it. Now, I think it runs better than my other Conquest, even though it's 8yrs older. It also has half the hrs of my newer one.
Which one gets the new engine

RD

[Roger S]

A hundred ft roll of 50-2?

[Rock Doctor]

A hundred ft roll of 50-2?

Yes, a reel of Tsubaki, although it had a set of Idler Chains cut off it , so I guess it's a bit under 100 ft.

I like that Tsubaki chain, I've had good luck with it on my other Argo

RD

[JKL05ultra]

RD.....PB Blaster is manufactured by B'Laster/B.C.C.I in Cleveland, Ohio. There phone # is 800-858-6605. The label says it is a "Concentrated Copolymer Penetrant". I think the PB stands for Penetrating Blaster. Their website is the B'laster Corporation and you can get the MSDS info there to see what the active ingredients are.....the can just says contains Petroleum Distillate.

I've bought it at local autoparts (i.e. Autozone, Advance Auto Parts) and also at Walmart.

It works better on rust than anything else I've ever tried.

JKL