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Hello, as my first post! First I want to say thanks to everyone that makes this forum such a good knowledge base! I have read a lot, and looked through tons of pictures, and already feel like I have learned a bunch. So, "Thank You!"
A few weeks ago I traded an old golf cart for a (what the owner told me) mid 70's 8x8 Argo. I'm not sure either of us came out ahead as the 8x8 needs a lot of work. BUT for the area I live in, and having 3 young boys I feel like I (we) will get more use from the Argo.
It's green, with "evil argo" hood, serial number HTB6173, TEC 16hp. Runs decent, for what looks like it has NEVER been maintained! Several of the vinyl adjuster pads are missing, and just figured out last night there are supposed to be springs connecting them! I have built a battery tray to replace the missing one, and started the process of rewiring everything (so it will actually shut off), and welding a new section of flexiable exhaust pipe.
My question is about the steering. It goes Left real well, but you can not force it to turn Right. The worst part about this is I have never driven one and have no idea what to consider "normal"? I have to believe for as popular as they are, they turn better than this? Do you think it may be the pads not adjusted right, or could the differential need some work? Any advice would be appreciated.
Your steering question is all to do with adjusting your brakes and nothing to do with the differential if you ask me. I'm going to assume that you have the manual style brakes on this Argo and not the hydraulic brakes. If so then learing how to adjust them will keep you in buisness. My first argo had the manual brake and I found that as long as they were adjusted correctly they did good. When out on hunting trips I always caried two 1/2" wrenchs in my pocket to make adjustments during the day. Having a whole moose in the back of the rig made it improtant to keep the brakes working good! I'll try to explain what I did to adjust them...
There's two adjustment points:
First is the caliper assembly crossbolt that adjusted how the brake lever arm applied a crush on the brake pads and allowed them to stop the brake disc. This one had double 1/2" jamb nuts on it. Getting this correct was always what made the brakes work good. You need it tight enough to allow the lever arm to apply the brakes with enough force when moved but loose enough not to rub the brake disc when brakes were not being applied. I bet this is your problem with your right brake is this is too loose. Loose the jamb nut and tighten the inner nut a little and try it out. Keep tightening until it improves the brakes to what you are wanting. Then tighnen the jamb nut back up. Small changes in this adjustment seemed to make noticable changes in braking ability. Just be careful to not overtighten as it will start to drag the brake pads on the disc if you do overtighten.
Second is the hand lever arm to the brake lever arm adjuster. This one had a single 1/2 nylock nut on it. It was always adjusted sencond and is simply adjusted where the steering lever rested and how far you could pull it back when the brakes were applied.
Hope this helps...
Probaly should have started out with this: Make sure your pads are in decent shape. If you don't have any brake pads you'll never get them to adjust in!
Thanks for the reply, and help. I have tried to adjust them some but it seems to me like it's gonna take some practice. I have it partially tore down right now, so when I get it back together I will try to adjust the brakes and see if it steers more like I think it should. The first time I took it out it was even worse to steer. You have to run it full throttle and lock one side up then let off about the direction you wanted to head! BUT it didn't help that the previous owners didn't have the right length bolt so they used several lock washers and oversized nuts to take up the extra length of the bolt. Thanks again!
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