Brakes fading

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Thread: Brakes fading

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    rhode island
    Posts
    709
    this would make for a great video rock doctor, similar to the bearing change video you did. i don't mean to volunteer you but the bearing video was very helpful for me and i'm sure others. i would like to get into the brakes on my bigfoot at some point, adjustments and replacing the pads, just a thought. i'm a learning argo mechanic and have no one around me with experience on these things. this site and community is a great source of info and got me through some bumps in the road with the bearing change.

    trevor

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northern BC
    Posts
    2,990
    LOL, I actually almost made a vid of the last Brake Job I did, but was out in the bush with the whole family and 2 Argo's, on a trail, with the bugs, and in a hurry. Didn't have the proper parts with me, so I had to make a Plunger O-ring out of a Body Plug with a pocket knife. Burnt my fingers, invented a few curse words on the spot, and had to get it done before it got too dark to see. It actually would have probably made for an entertaining vid.
    It's on my Bucket List, but have not gotten to it yet.

    RD

  3. #13
    okay heres the deal. took the masters off the machine today and checked the rings. the master on the side that seems to be working alright is a little scarred up and the master on the pooched side looks just like new. both seemed to work in and out just fine. i guess i myswell buy the kit while the parts are off but i have another thing to ask of you guys. is there any way of bleeding and purging the caliper(trying to evac all water) without taking the thing off. looks like i will have to take off the disc to get the calipers off and im not too keen on playing around with the idler chains. any ides are welcome and appreciated. p.s the side that was screwing up on me looked like the plunger was countersunk into the master about an 8th of an inch when at rest but i had the adjuster backed off to allow quit a bit of freeplay. could it be sticking in the master? could the return spring be wore out and not strong enough. you think with hydraulic pressure in there it would push the plunger out to the correct depth?? thanks

  4. #14
    okay an update. tore into it after work here today and found the you can take the calipers off without taking the chains and discs off. there is a hole through the disc which i thought was for better cooling. didnt even think about it until i was trying to pry the disc off the tranny. the calipers look like there in good shape other than a bit of red fluid come out with the fluid i had put in a few weeks ago. guess i didnt flush as well as i thought. anyone any ideas as to what the red fluid is? is dot 3 or 4 brake fluid red? kinda wonering now if that wasnt my trouble. i didnt get it all pieced back together tonite but tomorow i should have it all done purged and ready for a test run to see if the problem persists. i gave in and ordered master rebuild and caliper rebuild from points west in cali. parts should be here in about a week and half. very helpful there and i may just have the machine up and ready for hauling a donkey outta the bush in about 3 weeks. one question. is there anything other than the seals in these parts that can wear out? a guy at work looked at the caliper and seen there was a bit of chafing along one side, very minimal, and said it was wore out?? anyone??

  5. #15
    ok i guess i lucked out. had the masters and calipers off and cleaned up, put on and new fluid and the machine seems to be working proper again. the plunger in the one master is still sticking a bit. after i push in it takes a little bit for it to come back to rest. anyone have any idea if the new seals will help this or will i have to purchase a new spring? anyways the machine started dragging to the right now but that was due to a flat tire. hade a log wedged against it in bush and rim was spinnning inside the tire. must have got some junk in the bead. anyone know a way to lock the bead on the rim or a way to stop junk from getting in there? would more air pressure help? someones gotta have some ideas

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northern BC
    Posts
    2,990
    LOL, if it's not leaking, it's not worn out. Or at least in my experience anyway. Soft parts is all I've had to replace. I do have a new set of Masters, just in case, but have never had to break the packages open.

    If there is a bit of grit or something that could be sticking that one plunger. I would be tempted to replace the spring's in both masters just in case. Keep the one that still works fine as a spare. Springs are expensive to have delivered when you're 10 miles out in the bush, cheep when you're in town.

    Glad to hear everything is working out

    As for the tire, I've not had that problem before. You can get Bead Lock Rims, I think someone mentioned the member Matt-O ??? maybe, for rims here once or twice. More air pressure will help, but at the cost of a bumpy ride. I run about 3.5psi in my tires and have pretty good luck. Soft enough to drive over Splintered stumps, but hard enough to stay on the rims.
    Best idea might be to not jam trees in there anymore


    RD

  7. #17
    ya ill try not to thats for sure. actually was trekking across a floating bog and couldnt see it. when i looked at the right side tires i only seen 3 spinning and thought i had &^$%^ed something up. nope. just spinning in rim. first for me too! anyways ya ill try a bit more air pressure to see what that does

  8. #18
    I assume your brakes have a cooling fan; is it working? On both my 87 and 92, the fans when not working would cause brake fade and sponginess in the steering levers.

  9. #19
    ya the brakes are working. i think maybe there was a fluid in the system that shouldnt have been there. everything working fine now

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