Drive Belt height vs Argo manual

[sparkola]

I have no driveability issues but I did notice that my drive belt sits about 1/8 inch below the top edge of the driven clutch. My Argo manual for the 97 Conquest does not state anything about where the belt should sit in the driven clutch. It does state that when it gets to a width of 1 5/16" It should be replaced. It is just under 1 1/2" Should I just leave it alone? It only has about 60 hrs on the machine. I have read on the boards here that some are changing it when it goes below the top edge.

[Rock Doctor]

I have no driveability issues but I did notice that my drive belt sits about 1/8 inch below the top edge of the driven clutch. My Argo manual for the 97 Conquest does not state anything about where the belt should sit in the driven clutch. It does state that when it gets to a width of 1 5/16" It should be replaced. It is just under 1 1/2" Should I just leave it alone? It only has about 60 hrs on the machine. I have read on the boards here that some are changing it when it goes below the top edge.

If it's driving fine I would leave it, but now would be a good time to get a Spare belt. Should always have one anyway. I would put a new one on and test it out to see the difference.
60hrs on a belt should not show much for wear, and the belt should not be that low in the Secondary. Has the Secondary Clutch been worked on or modified in any way (Shimmed open for some reason)?

RD

[sparkola]

Not that I know of. I do have a new belt in the storage bag for backup and it is the same width as the one on the machine. Without taking the clutch apart, I cannot answer that question. I guess I could measure the distance between the sheeves and see what I got. What should the correct spacing be? What would be the effects of a clutch that was shimmed open too much?

[Rock Doctor]

Perhaps the spring has lost a little strength, or maybe the clutch just needs some lubrication.

Have you tried to pull the belt off and let the clutch close all the way. Hold it closed with your hand, and set the belt in the clutch. Does it still sink in below the outer diameter of the clutch?
If it was shimmed open to much, it would engage at a slightly higher RPM and at a slightly higher gear ratio. If you took it to an extreme, it would be like starting is second instead of first gear.

Have you pulled the clutches apart before?
Here is a clip of the Secondary


You might want to pull it apart and lube the Clutch, and/or tighten the spring a bit.

I run mine tight. I think my spring is in position 1 in the Helix. That makes it Upshift slower (keeps it in a lower gear longer) and it Downshifts faster.
Along with running my Secondary tighter than Stock, I also Shim up (tighten) the spring in my Primary Clutch, so they work together a bit better. Tightening the Primary a bit will make the Primary engage at a slightly higher RPM

RD

[sparkola]

ok I popped the belt off and nothing moved. I can grab the inner sheeve and turn clockwise while holding the outer sheeve, therefore by applying twisting pressure on the spring. When I release the nylon sliders touch the components that they slide along and stop. Are you saying that once the nylon sliders make positive contact with their respective mating surfaces, that the inner sheeve should move even closer to the outer sheeve and that the nylon sliders should move even further up their guides closing the sheeves closer together when the belt is off? The manual says I need to use silicon based lub on the sliders, spring, shaft. What brand do you recommend? The sheeve distance does not change when I remove the belt? Should it?

[sparkola]

I just popped the new belt on for giggles and it sits flush for most of the rotation of the secondary and slightly above( 1/32") in a couple of spots. I would imagine that could be to varience in the belt manufacturing process. I watched your vids the other night. that's what got me looking at this in the first place. LOL. I also noticed that the idler chains have about 1 inch of deflection and that only one of the adjustment bolts is actually making contact with the big assembly tightening bolt. The previous owner must have only drove this around for about 40 hours and started hearing banging sounds when turning and decided to get rid of it.

[Rock Doctor]

ok I popped the belt off and nothing moved. I can grab the inner sheeve and turn clockwise while holding the outer sheeve, therefore by applying twisting pressure on the spring. When I release the nylon sliders touch the components that they slide along and stop. Are you saying that once the nylon sliders make positive contact with their respective mating surfaces, that the inner sheeve should move even closer to the outer sheeve and that the nylon sliders should move even further up their guides closing the sheeves closer together when the belt is off? The manual says I need to use silicon based lub on the sliders, spring, shaft. What brand do you recommend? The sheeve distance does not change when I remove the belt? Should it?

I just wanted you to confirm that the clutch was in fact closing all the way. Sounds like it is.
I prefer "Dry Graphite Spray" as a lube, I think it takes the high temps better.
Are you sure that the "New" belt is in fact new?

So, assuming you do have a new belt in there, I would say this is an "Initial Setup" issue. Clutches can be slightly different and during there initial setup, they may need to be "Shimmed". ODG offers shims (they call them spacers) in 25 and 50 Thou thicknesses (.025" and.050"), they are to be used "As Required". You're not far off, but I suspect that you will have shims between your Clutch Faces, and if you want to get it closer to recomended settings, you could remove one or 2 of those shims.

But, like you said. Everything seem fine, right? If it ain't broke, does it need to be fixed?

RD

[Rock Doctor]

Hey, no fair. You changed your post while I was replying to it


RD

Oh ya, and tighten those Idler Chains, otherwse they will eat holes through your floor pan. They don't have to "sing", but make them snug.

[thebuggyman1]

I'm jumping in here awful late, but here is Dayco's recomendation ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco
It's good info to have even if you don't need it right now.