Unfortunately eBay in australia is slim pickings for things like that.... and the post formt he US is getting more and more expensive... especially since the Ozzy dollar has dropped against the USD.Originally Posted by shot410ga
Unfortunately eBay in australia is slim pickings for things like that.... and the post formt he US is getting more and more expensive... especially since the Ozzy dollar has dropped against the USD.
theres got to be a farm supply place in OZ that sells it at a decent price????????????????????
I'm looking at forklift parts suppliers now....
last price I got was for $343 for a 10' length :O
so...I started messing around with the wiring last weekend.
as yes... to absolutely no surprise at all - the previous owner has 'fixed' this as well.
all of the negative earth wires have been pulled from the earth BUS, snipped off and connected directly to the earth lead, and wrapped up in electrical tape.
There seems to be little to no wires coming from the other sides of the fuse blocks - which left me hoping they have not 'by passed' the fuse blocks somehow, but I did managed to blow a fuse - so here's hoping!
I managed to get the brake blower wired up, although I'm not 100% sure how it's working.... as I traced the wires back up the loom and ones been cut
(I guess it's a different wire or something - but funny/frustrating all the same)
I couldn't get the headlights to work, as there was no actual voltage running down the wires to the units.
The headlights themselves had been glued up with silicone, so I guess they used to get water in them all the time maybe...
I pulled one apart (to check the bulb - which was blown) and it was very brittle, and broke apart in my hands some, along the lines of some 'repaired' cracks.
which now I think about it - was probably what the silicone was really for!
The actual headlights themselves look to be about 1/2" smaller than the 100's of generic replacement rectangular lights I can find on ebay (typical)
I did manage to wire in a bilge pump, and added a switch for it on the dash - I just have to make up a bracket to hold it in the stock location which shouldn't be too hard.
I would love to go through the whole wiring loom and put everything back to stock, but I don't think I have the time... or the patience!
but who knows - some other wiring problem might present itself (like battery not charging) and I might not have the option!
The hour meter was also not wired up at all, and I could not find the wires/loom that were supposed to go to this.
I did mange to find a cheaper chain supplier, which have quoted me $80 less than the other place - so pretty happy with that.
Next steps are
get out a broken grub screw from one sprocket
get the headlights working
wire up hour meter
Hook up the brake blower tube
make bracket for bilge pump
stick on foam between the two shells
buy & fit the chains
lube everything
change the engine fluids
join the shells.
Last edited by mitchamus; 04-03-2014 at 12:07 AM.
mitch, take a look at malpasonline.co.uk the 50-2 duplex chain works out around105 Aus $ for 5 m length they ship but not sure what the cost would be to your part of the world as a last ditch it is not a bad price, I will be using them as french prices make me feel faint! Hope this helps on the chain front. Nice rebuild, gives me hope for my project!
image.jpgI'm building back my original owner 2001 conquest with 227 hours, when you replace the bearings you move the front and rear shafts to the middle and the mid shafts to front and rear for completely new sealing surfaces. I hope yours gets built soon I'm just now getting back to mine after a long break. When you move the shafts, you have to remove the paint from the axles then repaint what protrudes from the body after reassembly
That's a really good tip - I guess I really should do that!
I had never thought of that - but it makes total sense now that you say it.
I had not planned on painting the axles though.
I managed to find a set of driving lights off eBay that look like they may (fingers crossed) slip straight into the conquest mounts. They certainly look nearly identical. some trimming may be required.
IMG_3235.jpg
IMG_3236.jpg
So - on the weekend I managed to get the wiring for the headlights working.
Turns out the lights do work, they were just not earthed properly, and there was no power to the switch.
But they are fairly sun damaged, and the reflectors are pretty pitted. I'm hoping the new ones I bought will slip straight in.
I also need to change the jackshaft bearings, which I really should have done before I put the engine in.
I'm hoping I can do these without removing the engine.
It's only the outer bearing that needs replacing on the left side. The right side is tight and solid.
jackshaft bears are no problem with the power pack still mounted. remove all set screws off bearings and sprockets. slide the shaft back toward the center just enough to remove the outer jackshaft bearing and flanges. there may be allot of built up crud on the axle so clean and lube it to make the sprocket easier to slide on the spline shaft. move sprocket as close as you can to the outer end of the shaft. if the shaft wont pull out of bearing with all the set screws removed you can unbolt the center flange and wiggle it out. takes time but not too bad.
awesome - good to know - thanks Dan.
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