You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
Hi i recently got an argo which me and my dad got running tonight for the first time since bringing it home (yesterday) and we had a few problems. im 15 so i cant really go running out to the dealers for anything too expensive though.its a magnum.
firstly could anyone give me an electrical diagram for the ignition as we cant get it to start using it and had to bridge it across the solenoid and we'r not sure why it wont start from the key.
also one of our chains seems very slack compared to the one next to it and is dragging across the chassis-how do we tighten it?
also one of our inner front wheel bearings is totaly knackered, how difficult are they to replace and what size of bearing would we need?
thanks
shizzles2, you can use the search feature here to research other articles on the electrical issues for these machines, try magnum electrical for your search criteria. Also you can download the manual which has the diagrams from beaver dam Argo, there is a link you can follow from this sight. As for the bearing and the chain issue, they may be related if the knackered bearing is on the same axle that has the slack chain. Access is the trick to changing the front bearing, you may have to remove a few things to get at it like the brake cooling vent hose or the clutch and belt. The manual for this machine will have all of the procedures outlined to do it properly. Good luck and have fun working with your Dad, it should be a fun project.
thanks for the reply.
we did have a good search through the site first but we couldnt find anything for the ignition and the manual was just a general wiring diagram but our problem is wiring the switch to the solenoid.
also we have got the problem with the chain down to the tensioner being to loose on the bottom part of the chain but we dont know how to adjust them and couldnt find it in the manual.
and the main problem with the bearing is we dont know what size to get as in the manual it just give a product number and tells us its a ball bearing.
but we did get it running today and had a short drive around the drive way!
Hi shizzles, welcome to the site. The front section of chain has no way to adjust other than replace the chain. the other sections work off spring loaded tensioners which tend to get weak as they are made out of light weight metal alloy. you can replace them or sometimes get more life out of them by rotating them in such away that they are twisting opposte than what they were. hope i am making sence here (Sometimes i babble and say nothing). Supposed to replace nylon slider block if the chain wear gets 1/4" deep. I got a pdf service manual from somewhere and i think it was from beaverdam argo, but this site won't allow it as it is too big of a file. Good luck.
thanks. i did have a look at the beaver dam service manuals but i just wasn't sure if i could adjust the tensioner or if i needed a new one.
also as for the ignition we managed to get one turn over with the key tonight but we had to bridge the solenoid to actualy get it running. does anyone know why the key isn't starting the engine?
Could be a bad ignition switch. Try and wiggle the key in the start position if the solenoid tries to pull in the switch it bad.
Check the connections on the back of the switch also.If you jump it there will it crank? I think it's the "s" terminal that goes to the solenoid.
My advice would be to check all the wiring and the switch for continuity using a multimeter, or a 12v globe and battery if you don't have one.
It's unlikely that there is a fault with the actual ignition switch itself, it's more likely to be just dirty. Spray with some contact cleaner and let it dry out before trying again.
Trace each wire from source to end checking for splits in the coating, and make sure there is no corrosion (the green stuff) on any of the joins, or connectors. - if there is make sure you clean all of this stuff off, and inspect.
The wire is most likely to fail where is bends sharply or passes through an opening or touches something. (motorcycle loom wires often break near the handle stem)
If you find a wire that will not carry a current, is split or kinked or flattened in a section - replace it with at least the same gauge wire or larger. never smaller - or you could start a fire due to resistance (unlikely - but possible)
If there are connectors in the wires - disconnect them and give each part a good clean with some wet & dry paper, or a points file. (or a nail file if you desperate - just don't get caught taking it!)
The trick is to do one thing at a time, test and then try another thing.
Wiring problems can be frustrating to diagnose sometimes - just try and be methodical.
we were having a look at the gearbox today and were wondering what kind of oil we should use and how much. also there is something sticking out of the top that looks like a breather tube but not sure if it may be something else.
one last thing does anyone know of a decent place for tyres in the uk?