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jp, I couldn’t get link to work. Does your noise go away when you turn right? If so, I would suspect a tensioner on the right side. Normally when you turn, the faster moving side of the machine will keep the drive side of the chains tight on that side of the machine (in the forward direction), and the tensioner side will show various levels of slack depending on how hard you are working. Sometimes this amount of slack is enogh to cause the tensioner to tap/rock/go back and forth because of the spring tension and the fact that there is enough play to let this happen, but maybe not enough play to automatically notch up and adjust tighter. But the inside (slower moving, braked side) bank of chains will get looser on the top and tighter on the tensioner side..often times this is enough to pin the tensioner down and keep it from tapping. They are supposed to be automatically afjusting “up” as tensioner pins slide up the groovies in the frame. If this doesn’t happen, the can tilt/rock and make all kinds of racket if the tensioner side of the chains increases its “slackiness”. Turning the other direction will often times cause the noise to go away as the machine (and therefore tires) are dragged along by the ground (or within a track). This rotates the braked side tires faster than the transmission output and tightens the tensioner side of an otherwise “too loose” chain, and the noise stops. The solution is to manually adjust/notch up the tensioner (both sides of the pin within both groovies, squarely) so that the notched plates are sitting on the frame crossmember equally/level. That’s probably a crappy description, hopefully it makes sense.
Trevorak: You noise sounds like a loose front chain that “droops” into the face of the front sprocket under heavy load (turning, especially climbing + turning) where the bottom of the front chain is about as tight as it’s going to get, and the top is as loose as it’s going to get. A link in the top of the chain droops into the face of the front sprocket (instead of going straight over and down/around...can’t cheat gravity). The link binds, then suddenly releases with a loud “bang”, and the process repeats itself under heavy load. The solution is to change front chains (no tensioners to help). Similar thing can gappen on rear chains if too stretched or if tensioner has no adjustment left. The bottom of chain will droop under the rear sprocket, skip a link, load up, and then bang into place as it settles onto skipped sprocket tooth. Just some thoughts (I didn’t get a chance to see the video)
Hey Buzz, Mine problem was a completely destroyed inner front bearing that allowed the axle to wallow around and thus causing chain/ sprocket interference. Was a used and neglected machine but taught me alot refurbing the drive train.
Sounds like loose chain tapping or trying to jump tooth. Check your mid or rear tensioner. Front chain could be no good but 100 hrs shouldn't be. As mentioned by Buzz, the front chain slop could be tapping tub
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