Bearing and axle upgrade question on early st300d

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Thread: Bearing and axle upgrade question on early st300d

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    146

    Bearing and axle upgrade question on early st300d

    Hey yall,

    I am "restoring" my st300d. Mainly just bringing it back to life and looking clean again with no cracks so I can swim.

    So I FINALLY after 5 nights of fighting the darn C clips got the outer bearings and seals out for the aluminum outer bearing flanges.

    Here are the numbers, there were two different bearings and seals so im guessing someone repaired before.

    Outer bearing 1: NTN 6205Z (japan)

    Outer bearing 2: FAFNIR 205KDD C3


    Seal 1:GARLOCK KLOZURE 63x430

    Seal 2: USA 12508 C7A (only one of these so im guessing not original.)


    OK So here is my question. What is the best replacement bearing and seal? I want to actually use the machine so I want the best bearing possible for a reasonable price.

    Secondly, not that I have this whole set of axles disassembled,

    1: how do I press the bearing off and also does the metal collar come off as well?
    2: What will it cost me to upgrade to a stronger axle metal,

    I will post pictures of the setup in a bit. (edit) PICTURES



    The seal lip rides on the metal collar, not down on the actual axle. C clips locate and fix the bearing in the aluminum block.











    Thanks
    Last edited by sofob0909; 06-20-2013 at 01:15 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    6,442
    Call the guys at Buffalo Bearing. (716) 874-1720. They have every bearing, seal, bushing, chain sprocket, high end, low end, mid grade, etc that you could imagine. They're great people to deal with......tell them you're with 6X6World and they'll take good care of you. As far as axle material goes, simply get 1" sections of 4130 Chromoly. It's not very expensive and works GREAT for AATV applications. Cut it to your desired length and drill the holes for your axle pins and hubs and you're set.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    146
    Great.

    I will look and see what the going rate is for 4130 1" round stock in charlotte.

    I was wondering what should I do about the "chill ring" if I upgrade? (This is the piece that the seal rides on which sticks out the end of the bearing block.) Is it really needed? I am a bit confused as to what is locking the axle and fixing it from sliding in or out when in use...

    Also how hard will it be to drill and cut the 4130 shafts myself. I have a drill press and would be willing to get equipment to cut the stock if a cutoff wheel is not enough.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    146
    Just an update to the tread for anyone in the future who is looking to do this axle upgrade

    each axle is 14.25 inches long. So I am looking at getting an 8ft length (longest I could find) and another 2 ft length or 18in if available for the last axle.

    It came out to around $70-75. not bad I think...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    69
    What is the name of the place in Charlotte? I will need axles as well for my 300.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by RandyP63 View Post
    What is the name of the place in Charlotte? I will need axles as well for my 300.
    That was just from a quick Google search on 1 in bar stock.

    when I find a place in charlotte I will definitely post

    does anyone have any input on the ease on machining 4130 chromoly. What tools are really needed to do this correctly

    also what to do about the "chill rings"?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    455
    Here are those seals I was telling you about. I will interchange your part numbers at work tomorrow, but I am pretty sure these seals would work. These cost me about $2 each. They don't look like a bad seal, but if you wanted a better quality one, like a BCA/National, it would probably be around $11 or $12 each. I plan on using these in my second ST/300/D.

    IMG_20130701_201224_191.jpg ResizedImage_1372729897482.jpg
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- Resto/mod project! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    146
    Update. Found a place in charlotte area that has 1 inch 4130. google stock car steel.

    I am planning on going up there this weekend to see if they can fab up the chill rings.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    69
    I found a place place as we'll last week. It is Alro Steel on Goodrich drive, $65 4140 chrome molly. I need to find a place to get them cut.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    146
    How much did you get? If you find a place to get the shafts machined maybe we can go in together and try to save some money. ..

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