Fuel Problem maybe more.

  1. Welcome to 6x6 World.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 12 of 12

Thread: Fuel Problem maybe more.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    NE
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by Don View Post
    Leaving the jugs and pistons the way they are should be fine. The only thing I wanted to point out was that if you rotate the jug, the piston should be done as well. If you post the make/model of your engine, there is most likely someone on the list that has a manual and can tell you the torque and sequence for tightening: there are a lot of us that have played with two-strokes for a long time
    I can only assume this G50B came out of a 78 Rupp Rally it was sold to me as a vintage NOS Snowmobile engine I can get the Numbers off the tag if that is helpful. The Engine runs fine I just have it in the Attex Backwards so it has no muffler because that engines exhaust manifold was on the rear instead of front. I know that the 78 Rupp Rally was the only S/M with the G50B engine in it and olny 1850 of those Rupps were made before they shut down. I may have a line on a cylinder & Head for my old engine. which if so and the price is right that is all I need to put the original motor back in it. Then I'll have a perfectly good running spare engine but will need Exhaust manifold y pipe for it and a carb & carb gasket set and rubber boot, and muffler to have 2 perfectly running G50B engines just the SM engine has the Shaft for the clutch on the wrong side for the Attex as it currently is. Thanks for the Help you folks are always great.

    Quote Originally Posted by ARGOJIM View Post
    Whoops, looks like I started something.

    To check the fuel pump you could manually pulse the pump with your mouth. Before you do that though disconnect all the lines and blow in each port, 2 should have no resistance and one should have obvious restriction. Also with feed line disconnected if the pump is lower than the tank fuel should run out semi freely.
    Yeah I did that nothing blew out any hole opened it up to see if it was clogged found nothing. Run compressed air through the gas cap to see if gas line was clogged it was fine hooke up gas line to pulse pump gas came out one hole but not to easy. and when all lines were connected nothing cam out so I suspect the pulse pump needs rebuilt. I ordered a 12 volt 3 to 7 psi electric universal fuel pump and will order a new pulse pump and repair kit for the old one. But I attached a small gas tank gravity fed it starts and runs just fine drove it around a good bit all worked and ran fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Don View Post
    Leaving the jugs and pistons the way they are should be fine. The only thing I wanted to point out was that if you rotate the jug, the piston should be done as well. If you post the make/model of your engine, there is most likely someone on the list that has a manual and can tell you the torque and sequence for tightening: there are a lot of us that have played with two-strokes for a long time
    I would have to rotate the Jugs and pistons to run that Rupp Rally Engine in the Attex to hook up exhaust pipe to get to muffler you need a true 90 degree coming off the manifold part of the exhaust pipe unless I can find another manifold for the rupp engine cause I am not hacking on the one that came off the original engine. But we tried making pipe to get to the muffler 2 90 degree turns it wouldn't even start but for 2 mins with no power. My buddy kept saying it was the carb. I knew 2 strokes were funny like that if the exhaust pipes aren't properly tuned which is hard to do or make in the back yard. So I disconnected that crap run just the Straight Pipe which then I can't put the hood & rack back on like that not going to cut in holes in it either to make it fit push came to shove I'd make a whole new hood and seat for it before I'd do that. But have I disconnected the rigged exhaust it put the straight pipe back on it started and ran fine again. So until I either turn the jugs an pistons on the Rupp engine I just have to run it with straight pipe and no hood or seat, or get the cylinder replaced or fixed for my old engine. But well get it going right here just time and a bit more money.

    Just wondered to will the Chaparral 440 exhaust manifold fit the G50B engine cause I can get a good deal on one and that would solve the exhaust system issue with this Rupp Engine because we could weld pipe to route to the muffler then to I wouldn't have to mess with my original engines exhaust manifold which I have temp installed on this Rupp engine. In fact a better quest if anyone knows what other model, make engine parts if any interchange with this G50B engine.
    Last edited by Mike; 09-06-2014 at 05:56 PM. Reason: merged four consecutive posts. You can reply to everyone at once using the multiquote button

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,049
    I'm going to say yes as my S/C currently has the 44b in it with 50b exhaust on it.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts