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Attex ATVs Forum for discussing Attex 6x6 ATVs. With names like Superchief, Crazy Colt, and Wild Wolf they have to be fun.


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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2008, 01:09 AM
Herbee Herbee is offline
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hello again. Dupont makes a flexible bondo for bummper repair for cars. Ive
not triied it as of yet, but you may find it at a body repair shop.Ive seen it at
an auto body shop here in California. Just the other day,If I had known this before I did my repairs I think I would have used it.Unknown about price you may want to find out.We are going to Rino line it to seal some stress cracks and give the body more strength. Hope this helps.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2008, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydromike View Post
.... but the one bad thing about stainless steel is that it can dent, and holds that shape once it dents. Not that you're going to running head-long into rocks and stumps.... While HDPE may initially look like the cheaper alternative to something like aluminum or stainless skids (they are... sigNIFicantly...) I think they offer a lot of benefit over their metallic counterparts. HDPE may scratch and gouge, etc., but it's still a very tough material,

~m
Thanks Mike and Bridget, nice to get some input from some 6X6 pros.
I am leaning towards the HDPE, althoug I am looking at quite a thick high grade stainless to avoid the dent issue, my main concerns are price and weight. I won't be using this at high speeds on rough terrain due to the relatively tame engine and the fact that the crack I fixed may open up if I go too crazy. George, I will take some before/after pics on the acetone wipe down. Herbee, I have actually used Marine Tex more than a few times as I am an avid boater, and their epoxies are strong as hell. But I have heard that it didn't quite have that same bond with the ABS, like fiberglass/resin which I know does't bond as well as it had been done to this WW before I got it. I would recomend the ABS shavings/acetone goo. I have done more than half "the crack" so far, and every smaller crack on the machine, and it really does seem extremely strong. Some have said as strong as original. I am not sure about that, but it is very good.
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:05 AM
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Wow, an update

Hi:
OK, I have been doing some work, but due to "Work", not a lot, especially with all the testing and licensing I am going through right now. But the crack is almost gone, although the work is still rough and must be smoothed out so the skid-plates don't stress the repair area. And the hole is no more! (Well, no more than a crack now ) Picture #1 is the remainder of the hole, still taped and "Sticked" to let everything cure in the correct place. Picture #2 shows the back half which has the final coat, just needs sanding, and Picture #3 shows how far forward the base coat goes. Whoever figured out the ABS+Acetone recipe is a genius, and I think they have the full respect of just about every ABS bodied 6-wheeler owner. And George, I WILL get acetone polishing pictures as soon as I can do some polishing, I just have some green paint in the way.
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Old 06-18-2008, 07:41 AM
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Looking good 6x6.
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:57 AM
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Well, The crack is gone. I still have some ABS'n to do, but there is no more crack! I hope to finish off the last coat tomorrow, and then I just gotta put the road signs, err, skidplates back on, and finish the bildge pump install. (Yeah, that what those red wires to nowhere were for in the earlier pics.) Now I just have to worry about the cosmetic work, gettin this ol frog to look like a Wild Wolf again. You can see the rest of the crack now sealed #1, does need a final coat in the front, and in #2, you can see the lack of a hole. Also, thank you Whipper for shipping a set of decals out, just waiting for the Santa in brown (aka UPS guy) to show up, and thank you Don for your info on the correct decals, and for finding that nose piece. (Now I just gotta pay for it!)
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:18 PM
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Talking to Myself

Well, letting the ABS cure good before covering it up with the skids, so I decided to go over all the other workings. Well, the headlights had been working, but now nothing. After much and testing with a meter, I found that the original fuse holder had 1 strand of wire still attached, enough to switch the starter solenoid, but the volts dropped to almost zero with the lights. So, new fuse-holder! Glad I caught that before I tackle "THE SWAMP" (Teaser video soon!) I removed the cloth heat shield since it was brought to my attention that they were asbestos. I wrapped the exaust and it looks much better too. And the automatic bilge pump and on/off/auto switch out of my old boat are installed and wired, work nice, just gotta mount it to the tub once the skid plate backing plates are in. I would NEVER hear the pump switch on over the engine and I wanna know if I'm sinking BEFORE I go down, so I routed the tube to the thru-hull to the front so I will see it. I do have to tidy up the wiring i tore out to find the light problem. The last photo shows how I relocated the ignition coil. HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE The coil was directly below the carb (Tillotson HR7A) and was pushing the fuel inlet on the bottom of the "Bowl" out. It was actually causing a seal to leak. It is not as close to the clutch as it looks, and the belt wont hit it, even if it pops out, unless it breaks. But I don't understand why they would do this, unless the coil mount or carb are not original.
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:40 PM
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Glad it is coming along. Sounds like you getting the little bugs figured out. Good idea with the bilge pump. Ive been looking into installing one, too. Can you get a picture of the outlet?
Looking forward to the video.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2008, 12:16 AM
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Hey Larry,

I have one on my trail machine. I have landscaping hose that runs from between the center and rear axles, up the back of the machine and out through the vents just above the belly band.

It's very comforting having the pump when you're in the water for extended swims.
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Old 06-28-2008, 02:22 AM
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Little progress, just smooting things out and cleaning, want the ABS to be cured when I cover it up. Larry, the outlet is a standard thru-hull fitting for a boat, I took it off my old boat! Since it is white nylon, once I clean the paint off it, I can dye it yellow to match the Attex with cloth dye, and it won't scratch off like paint would!
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Old 06-28-2008, 02:38 AM
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First film

Well, I have a couple nice, but very short trails on my property, but there is over a hundred acres with MILES of awesome trails behind my house, the only thing is....
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