$75 Attex ST300D

[birddog1148]

More pics. Home now and all mine!!!









looks like the frame needs LOTS of work, looks like it was partialy sheet metal, may just use some angle.

[LarryW]

With out scarying you to badly, that is the worst Ive seen. The planatary disk are apart on the ones side. I hope none of the gears fell out. Also the transmission cradle or frame has bearing retainers on both sides. I'm hoping they didnt get lost. There like a connecting rod end cap. And they are numbered 1 and 2 on cap and cradle so you dont get them mixed up as there machined to stay together. Also when the trans is out, the brake/drive pucks (pads) can fall out of the calipers. Not a big deal and could be made but better if you have them. If you look at the connecting linkages on the floor, there bent bad, someone must of really been pushing forward on those sticks hard. Which may be an indication of someone not knowing how to adjust the drive pucks or maybe there beyond adjustment. The angle iron on the frame is basically sheet metal thick to begin with on the inner rails. Very thin. So it dont take much for it to rust out badly. Yours is hard to see but looks like its completey missing chunks of frame. Even before it gets that bad the inner frame rails get weak and flexs so the axle will move up at wheel end and down at the inner frame rail end. The tires will rub the body in extreme cases. Redoing the frame rails really wouldn't be that hard though. Looks like the front is ok so that would save alot of work if you only have to do the rear inner rails. But if your doing it, it wont hurt to beef up the whole thing.

Its definitely a project machine but sounds like you have the mechanical ability to get this thing back to life.

The abs body is easliy fixable to like new or better condition. If you look at my gallery and look at attex little lil truck conversion I am working on. You can see how well the plastic can be brought back to life. But thats only cosmetics and I would work on the mechanics first.

Good luck with it, feel free to ask any questions and keep us update on any progress you make.

[birddog1148]

The planitary gears only have 3 planet gears right? Cover did fall off on the way home, but I figure it needs all torn down and rebuilt anyway. Brake pucks look to be there buf not in the center so need spread apart to get discs in. Caps are there to hold trans in, and the guy I got it from said he could make some if not. What about that serial #2023?

[LarryW]

The planitary gears only have 3 planet gears right? Cover did fall off on the way home, but I figure it needs all torn down and rebuilt anyway. Brake pucks look to be there buf not in the center so need spread apart to get discs in. Caps are there to hold trans in, and the guy I got it from said he could make some if not. What about that serial #2023?

Yea only 3 gears is right. Thats good you have all your parts.

Just out of curiousity, what is the serial number on your transmission? Im trying to find out if the trans and vehicle numbers are suppose to match. All my machines have had the serial number sticker off. So I only know the transmission one. Thanks

[birddog1148]

Ok, some quick questions. To get the axles out I pull the pins out of the sprockets, does the inner bearing have a set screw that needs loosened?

Anything else hold the frame in?

The body halves are riveted and stapled together correct?

[birddog1148]

trans says ATV 7000
sn 1608

[LarryW]

Pull the pins, and the inner bearing does have set screws. I have only seen one machine that actually used them though, most of the time the axle is just sitting in the bearing. The outer bearing is press fit on the axle. The sprocket tubes can get rusty and really stuck on the axle even when the pins are out. That is probably going to be your biggest obstacle. If you have a slide hammer you can attache it to the axle and put something inside so the sprocket tube isnt damaging anything and hammer away is best bet. You dont have the option but normally easiest way is to take the pins out and drive it around untile the sprockets break free.

The upper and lower body halves have the rubber body band stapled on and the halves are riveted. You dont need to take it apart though. You can pull the frame and stuff out with taking it apart. But it is a lot easier to work on stuff if you do.

[LarryW]

trans says ATV 7000
sn 1608

Ok thanks. That helps.


The 7000 is the better atv manufacturing (baker hill)model transmission. Another plus+++ for you.

[birddog1148]

Once we get the frame out I wanted to take the body halves apart to repair the plastic. Thinking of getting a plastic welder from HF to fix it. Is ABS like fiberglass where you drill the end of the cracks before affecting repaires to prevent further cracking? Besides I dont like the exploding rivets they used. I would just use large head 3/16 rivets with back up washers like on the race car.

[LarryW]

Once we get the frame out I wanted to take the body halves apart to repair the plastic. Thinking of getting a plastic welder from HF to fix it. Is ABS like fiberglass where you drill the end of the cracks before affecting repaires to prevent further cracking? Besides I dont like the exploding rivets they used. I would just use large head 3/16 rivets with back up washers like on the race car.

Im not sure if the cracks are the same but I would think so.

Maybe you should check out the Angle Iron Body Band for when you put it back together.