Attex: Ignition switch, rectifier?????

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Thread: Attex: Ignition switch, rectifier?????

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lake Holiday, IL
    Posts
    155

    Attex: Ignition switch, rectifier?????

    The SC i'm restoring didn't have the original ignition switch when I got it. My question is did the original have a kill in the off postion? The dash is in great condition, and I don't want to drill a new hole in it for a kill button. I guess'n the switch had: Off(kill), run with lights, run, and start(electric start). I can't seem to find the right switch with electric start for it. Also with the help of Don and George, I converting the g50b to CDI ignition. When you postin the video of the convertion George? With that, do i need a rectifier? What does the rectifier do exactly? An old wiring diagram of an old snowmobile with this set up would help but I can't find one. Need some help, I guess I'm a little electrically challenged . I don't want to fry anything, like the CDI box!!
    Attex, there is no substitute

  2. #2
    Hi jerbear.

    I'm pretty much done with the CDI videos. I have two up on Youtube. Search "spideytank" to see them.

    I'm not certain but I believe a rectifier either switches the charge from AC to DC or just eliminates the pulse created by the charging coils into a steady DC charge. This charge then charges the battery. You do not need the the rectifier to run the engine. You do need it to charge the battery. You may not need it to work the lights.

    I'm only guessing about the lights based on my experience with the Attex Colt. It had no battery or rectifier and the lights would work when the engine was running.

    If my videos leave some questions unanswered, just let me know and I'll do my best to answer them (which likely means me asking Don ).
    Banned

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    2,766
    Hey JB;

    You should be able to find a switch from an electric-start snowmobile, if the original's gone from the SC, and you're right to use caution- the CDI box can make smoke if it's wired wrong. If I'm remembering right, the switch hooks up the same for the point ignition or CDI except that the CDI uses a single kill wire to ground and the point set uses two kill wires that connect together to shut down. All you need to do is find the one that is "extra" and ground it to frame for the changeover.

    George- the Colt would have to have an in-line rectifier to make the headlights work, but I don't think they used a regulator, so it probably was no bigger than an in-line fuse.
    Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

    (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Don View Post
    Hey JB;

    If I'm remembering right, the switch hooks up the same for the point ignition or CDI except that the CDI uses a single kill wire to ground and the point set uses two kill wires that connect together to shut down. All you need to do is find the one that is "extra" and ground it to frame for the changeover.
    I pulled the plugs on mine (so I could see the spark) and used the process of elimination to determine which leads in the harness would kill the plugs. I'd hook up a wire between the two leads until I IDed the pair. Then run a long loop to the dash with a switch on it or figure out which position on the new ignition switch will serve the same function.

    Hook'em up, crank, and watch.
    Banned

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