repowering old 70's argo with 18 hp vanguard. need some help please

[sieg]

So i'm repowering my old 70's argo with a new 18hp briggs vanguard engine. The machine had a 16hp tejunksy in it originally. My concern is with drilling the new mounting holes in the plate. The hole pattern is the same but i need to move the engine back roughly 1 1/2 inches to make room for the oil filter. I purchased a longer belt to make this possible. What i'm worried about is if i just move the holes straight back will i get proper alignment between the main clutch and secondary clutch? It looks pretty close lining it up by eye, maybe a little bit off to the right (looking at it from the front of the machine) Though i'm thinking that's probably how it should be as the clutch will draw the belt closer to the motor as it closes. am i correct? i want to be sure i get it right on the first shot. heres some pics of what i'm looking at to try and give you a visual of what i'm talking about:



My next question is about the electrical hookups. I tore all the old wiring out and i am starting from scratch with new wiring, but honestly i dont have a clue what i need to hook up to properly wire in the motor and make sure it's charging the battery correctly. does anyone have any knowledge of this who could give me a diagram of the wiring or a link to website which has a wiring diagram perhaps? Heres a pic of what i have on the motor, i just need to know how to properly connect it to the battery.

Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. I'm really excited to get this machine up and running. the snow's piling up and i can't drive it yet!

[greggv2007]

I changed my motor from a techumseh to a 18 briggs. Instead of moving the motor ahead, I installed a remote mounted filter setup and put the filter by the battery box. that way I was able to use the normal bolt holes and belt.

[Coop]

I'm not sure about the mounting locations, but I suspect if you move it back in line with the existing holes, the alignment will be fine. As for the charging system, all you need to do is hook up you positive battery cable to the solonoid and your ground to the engine block, the charging system is already wired in to there, the battery will charge.

Coop

[sieg]

I'm not sure about the mounting locations, but I suspect if you move it back in line with the existing holes, the alignment will be fine. As for the charging system, all you need to do is hook up you positive battery cable to the solonoid and your ground to the engine block, the charging system is already wired in to there, the battery will charge.

Coop

Thanks coop. I'm gunna go ahead and move straight back from the existing holes and see how it works. If i have problems i'll have to change it down the road.
As for hooking up the positive cable to the solenoid, would i attach it to the post that the orange wire is connected to in the picture?

[Roger S]

As for hooking up the positive cable to the solenoid, would i attach it to the post that the orange wire is connected to in the picture?

It appears so. The orange wire that's on it now must be the charging output from the regulator, so it needs to be to battery +. Does this engine have a key and choke on a panel? I'm guessing it does, because of the black wire hooked to the stud on the engine cowling, just above the orange "warning" sticker. Anyway, when that terminal is grounded, it kills the engine spark. I don't know about your existing 70's ignition switch, but it needs to ground that terminal when in the off position.

[sieg]

As for hooking up the positive cable to the solenoid, would i attach it to the post that the orange wire is connected to in the picture?

It appears so. The orange wire that's on it now must be the charging output from the regulator, so it needs to be to battery +. Does this engine have a key and choke on a panel? I'm guessing it does, because of the black wire hooked to the stud on the engine cowling, just above the orange "warning" sticker. Anyway, when that terminal is grounded, it kills the engine spark. I don't know about your existing 70's ignition switch, but it needs to ground that terminal when in the off position.

I wont be using the original ignition switch so i shouldnt have any problems. I will be using the the switch that came mounted to the motor i will just extend the wires so that they reach the dashboard.

[mike bar]

Would it be as simple as setting the old motor with the clutch still on it, on a flat surface(bench). using a square setting on the bench, place it up against a spot on the clutch that is easy to see, then measure from the square to the center of the mount holes. Now take the clutch and put it on the new motor and repeat the process. This should tell you if you have to offset the new engine or not. Keep in mind that I am a carpenter and most every problem I tackle to get measurements of this nature I will use this process. Works for me. Hope it helps.

[rustyhook]

Hi. Im new at this, right now im, putting a16hp vanguard in my 6x6, it had a635 rotax. What I was wondering its a tight fit because of the oil filter & the exhaust at the front, it also looks like I have to cut out in front of the hood area because the motor sits up to high. any suggestions Thanks.

[Bazooo guy]

The clutch offset and alignment is very important.
I used this diagram when I installed my engine and it works great.
Don't just eyeball it.
Clutch Offset - Amphibious ATV Pictures

[Dan67]

So i'm repowering my old 70's argo with a new 18hp briggs vanguard engine. The machine had a 16hp tejunksy in it originally. My concern is with drilling the new mounting holes in the plate. The hole pattern is the same but i need to move the engine back roughly 1 1/2 inches to make room for the oil filter. I purchased a longer belt to make this possible. What i'm worried about is if i just move the holes straight back will i get proper alignment between the main clutch and secondary clutch? It looks pretty close lining it up by eye, maybe a little bit off to the right (looking at it from the front of the machine) Though i'm thinking that's probably how it should be as the clutch will draw the belt closer to the motor as it closes. am i correct? i want to be sure i get it right on the first shot. heres some pics of what i'm looking at to try and give you a visual of what i'm talking about:



My next question is about the electrical hookups. I tore all the old wiring out and i am starting from scratch with new wiring, but honestly i dont have a clue what i need to hook up to properly wire in the motor and make sure it's charging the battery correctly. does anyone have any knowledge of this who could give me a diagram of the wiring or a link to website which has a wiring diagram perhaps? Heres a pic of what i have on the motor, i just need to know how to properly connect it to the battery.

Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. I'm really excited to get this machine up and running. the snow's piling up and i can't drive it yet!

Sorry I did not see this eariler, I did a repower just like this on my Hustler, but with the 23hp Vanguard. The wiring is exactly the same. Are you going to use the key switch that came with the new motor? I did, I just relocated it to the dash and made a new wire harness from scratch.



Looking at the wire pic on your engine.
Black goes to kill switch. Terminal #3
Double Yellow goes from stator to voltage regulator. The Red wire coming out of the regulator is the DC output (charge) Terminal #6
White wire is the carb anti-after-fire. Terminal #2
Single yellow is the starter solenoid tab (jumper wire) Terminal #4
Brown wire it the key switch ground wire. Terminal #1
Orange is the Positive wire (+) Terminal #5

Ground battery to frame and that should finish out the circuits. On my wiring I threw away the cheap starter solenoid and used a Ford and wired it in that way. I have allot of pics in my gallery and other stuff. I hope it helps you out.