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Thread: Suzuki G10 for implanting into an AATV

  1. #1
    spookum's Avatar
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    Suzuki G10 for implanting into an AATV

    Hi guys this thread is to document the prepping of a geo metro engine (Also called a G-10, Suzuki swift, spirit engine, but it is an Aluminum 3 cylinder 1.0L) for insertion into my 80s I/C Argo, but should be useful for all others, max hustler or any other that uses CVT style clutches. Or if you happen to find a AATV that has no engine, i dont see why this would not work. It is simply a matter of building moter mounts to align the clutches and graft the engine in. When you boil it all down, we have a metal frame, plastic floating tub and 6 or 8 axels. It would be super exciting to someone try this on a T-20 machine.

    The car itself is a 1993 Geo metro, manual transmission and Throttle Body Injection (pre OBD II starting in 1996 meaning less sensors to deal with). I found it at a junk yard for 300 USD.

    The first task is to get it running. It took me a day soaking the cylinders down to free it up. It does not have a fuel tank or fuel pump, so tomorrow i should have a fuel pump in hand. The G-10 TBI requires 30 PSI at 45 GPH. The engine has a regulator and return line to regulate manifold pressure to about 20 PSI. My fuel pump is good from 20 to 70 PSI at 45 Gallons Per hour, cost, $130.

    oil and filter: 26 dollars.

    Cold hard cash so far, $456 (Im going to keep track so see how expensive it is hope the wife dosent find this thread )

    oh, and a Polaris drive and driven clutch P-85 style was $120 from a 800 or 700 RMK, newer liberty engine.... 99 to 2005 i believe any clutch would work i just don't want to have to buy another clutch puller. Further more, the P-85 clutches are used on Polaris 4 wheelers and side by sides. I am going to try to simulate the weights and springs of a Polaris RZR, while the parts will not swap, the spring tensions and weights will give me a starting line. The 1.0 L Polaris engine and the 1.0L suzuki/chebbie Engine have very similar torque, hp and RPM curves. I am going to start out with a blue spring and 35 gram weights on the drive, and crank the driven way up.

    So really $576 spent on the geo engine project so far. I imagine i will change the timing belt and tensioner pulley and water pump, maybe take the radiator in to be cleaned. I hope to hear it run tomorrow 50 HP at 6000 RPM here i come and if that isn't enough, some day i can cam it and change the valves and make a 100 HP.
    Last edited by spookum; 05-31-2012 at 04:08 PM.

  2. #2
    jpswift1's Avatar
    jpswift1 is online now 6x6 World Sponsor jpswift1 is on a distinguished road
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    Now this is cool! I see you've done your homework on this and I'll certainly be watching this build. Good luck with it!
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  3. #3
    msafi65's Avatar
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    Did it free up ok and have compression? Going to be a couple weeks before I get back to work on Polaris crank. Need to strip clutch down to just the plate that mounts to crank. Sugery for me on Wednesday, fly home as soon as doc will let me. Thanks for posting now I have more to read.

  4. #4
    spookum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpswift1 View Post
    Now this is cool! I see you've done your homework on this and I'll certainly be watching this build. Good luck with it!
    Please, please please, one and all be very critical with questions. I want anyone with ANY kind of mechaincal ability and i mean anyone that is willing to grab a hand full of wrenches and go at it, be able to follow this build. The only way that can happen is for old and new hands like you JP swift, NCT rock dock and even (especialy) the newbies ask as many questions as you can. After this is done, i want to make into a manual, and the only way i can do that is have people help me!

  5. #5
    spookum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by msafi65 View Post
    Did it free up ok and have compression? Going to be a couple weeks before I get back to work on Polaris crank. Need to strip clutch down to just the plate that mounts to crank. Sugery for me on Wednesday, fly home as soon as doc will let me. Thanks for posting now I have more to read.
    Well god bless and i hope i can keep you amused. I hate to pick your brain when you should be resting, but dont you mean strip the engine down to the plate (most likely the flex plate aka starter plate that is bolted to the crank? i want to mock it up before i start on the crank. if the clutch has too much ofset the argo may list to one side in the water, and it will make the wife mad if she has to climb on top of me to keep from sinking!

    The engine turned over easy enough after soaking over nite with a full can of PB Blaster in cylenders. It may not have been needed, but better than scoring a cylender. Hopefly this thread wont include a TOTAL engine rebuld (but it would be funny to have a redirect from the TEAM SWIFT forums and the suzuki forums... they would die LOL) The guy i bought the cluthes from has evey weight and spring known to man. He said come on back when it is done, and he will help tune the clutches free of charge... i love this small big town!


    Get well soon!

  6. #6
    cfherrman is offline Sophomore Slider cfherrman is on a distinguished road
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  7. #7
    spookum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfherrman View Post
    This link is the insperation for this build. It proves the fact that it can be done! I know if i get hung up watching that one video of how everything is arranged will be very help full. One major difference is that that G-10 engine is carberated while the one im trying to do TBI. Also, the body on my argo is not as deep as the conquest's, so i will have to modify stuff to fit. Thanks for posting that link cfherrman, anyone finding this thread can go watch videos of a geo metro powered argo with tracks in action!

  8. #8
    spookum's Avatar
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    So i installed the NAPA fuel pump part number P5000, along with a return line. Got 10 feet of high pressure gas line, that was sixty bucks! a high flow filter and a few brass fittings. And ten feet of 1/4 inch fuel line for the return line. I stuffed them into a new can of gas. It tried to start but it didnt.... So i decided to get real, and run a compression test.... 180 175 175 PSI.... So compressio6n was not the problem. It seemed like a problem with the electrical. So i changed the plugs (9 dollars) and plug wires (new set laying around for a V-6 i sold before i could use them). Still it TRIED to start but no joy. So i pulled the cap and rotor, and low and behold, the terminals were so coroded it FLAKED off when i scrapped it clean with my knife.

    Now it starts, and runs, but kind of stumbles a little bit. Sure a general tune up will fix that...

  9. #9
    msafi65's Avatar
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    That's great compression for that 3 banger. I assume we will have to set drive clutch as close as possible to the engine???

  10. #10
    fmints's Avatar
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    Wow!!, Can't wait until its all put together. 50hp @ 6000 rpm is an Adrenaline Jumper,, for sure. You gotta take some pics, we are all interested in this build!!
    HUSTLEMANIAC and a HONORARY MEMBER of the
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