35HP Vanguard Mods?

**Hollywoodc** · 07-22-2014 05:12 PM

I would love to feel this thing get up to 6000!!!

This Briggs doesn't have a woodruff key but a standard key.
I spoke to Al Hodge and he said they didn't find any benefits in advancing the timing on the 35ers.
But I gave it a shot anyways.

Here is what I compiled with my timing key.

The key is 3/16 so if I cut off half, it would be an 8* advance.
If I cut off 1/3 of the key it would be a 5* advance.
I cut the yellow side of the key.

**Hollywoodc** · 07-22-2014 05:28 PM

I advanced the timing by half of the key which is about 8 degrees.
I also did some mods to the Primary Clutch.

Car felt great on take off, It will pull all the way through until I ran out of room in the parking lot.
It felt like it took longer to get through 3500 RPM range.

I didnt like the timing advance at all. It does help with the Take off and it feels like it may be getting to max speed but it seems like it takes to long to get past 4000 RPM.
I put pulled it and put a stock key back in. But then I went and broke.

I then put the stock flywheel key back in to get another feel of the difference. By changing the keys I did notice a difference in Low end that I didn't notice previously.
Even with the stock key, the buggy will take off and jump up to around 3800 RPM pretty fast, It doesn't give the strong feeling of torque until right around 3800. Then it takes a bit to get through past 4000 RPM. By the time I can get it to pass 4000, Im already at the end of the Parking lot.

After measuring the cut key again, I calculated that its only about a 5 degree change, about 1/3 cut of the key.

So I put the cut key back in for the timing advance to record and make note of how it feels.

Sorry so shaky, no GoPro.
The squel is from the belt being a bit too tight, it's at 1.5 deflection but still tightens up and makes it tough to shift. It did that even before I did the Primary Clutch mod. I have to find the happy spot in the belt tension to where it doesn't squel or rotate.
As you can see, it moves and jumps up to 4g, but there isn't enough room for me to get past that point.
I'm pretty much close to WOT and you can hear the engine whining up as the buggy goes.

Vanguard RPM check - YouTube

**Hollywoodc** · 07-23-2014 11:53 AM

Hydromike, in thread #61 it tells what clutch setup I have. A Salsbury 1190 primary and a Team secondary.
I made some mods to the primary to close the gap between the belt and the sheaves.
It engages pretty good and easy at take off. I felt that it was good to have it engage early for when the younger kids ride it. But after taking it out and running it hard, it feels like it needs a bit more top end instead.

I did a Black Marker test on the sheaves and both clutches are at about full engagement at 4000RPM.
So with that said, I'm thinking they shouldn't be at full engagement until they are in the upper Peak RPM range?

**Nubs** · 07-23-2014 03:02 PM

Well if it can't reach 5 er' 6K on level blacktop or going' down hill all the clutching in the World won't get it there. that setup has far less drag than a chain driven 6X6 and should freewheel well when gettin' outta the throttle. it all sounds like a lack of air and er' fuel

the 1190 is way too heavy and clumsy for what Your using it for, they don't like to down shift well and the rotating weight makes the motor slower to ramp up and or recover. The 1-1/8 Team drive clutch is $400 bucks but a good used 1190 sells 4 250+ on the Ole interweb to help offset the cost. once You solve the rpm issue the new drive clutch will complete the deal.

1 1/8" Straight Shaft Roller Clutch

**Hollywoodc** · 07-23-2014 09:09 PM

Thanks Nubs, Thats what I figured on the RPM issue.

Im gonna try a Rev up while at a Stand still and see the difference between with the Filter and without the filter. I'll shoot it with video and see if there is a difference.

**Hollywoodc** · 07-25-2014 09:36 PM

Not sure if this helps with the RPM issue, being that it is at a stand still and not under load. But I tried a few videos Revving it up with and without the filter to see how the engine would react. I can't really notice a difference, Im sure it would be different under load which I will have to try later.
Im hoping the tach is reading correctly, this is the only V-Twin Briggs that I've worked on so Im not familiar with how a certain RPM range should sound, but it is getting up to 6000 while at a stand still.

I did notice a few things.
1. Usually Backfires when ever it starts up.
2. Bogs a bit at the lower RPM range when I hit the throttle too fast. Maybe Slow or Idle jet to Rich or to Lean.
3. It is getting up to 6000 RPM's
4. Only gets to up 4500 RPM when driving the buggy at almost WOT.

I can't seem to be able to upload my Iphone video to youtube, it says it will take 482 minutes! WTF!
So this is the only video I was able to upload until I can figure out why my Iphone 4s videos are so hard to upload.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9Cy7Vl5sTE

**Hollywoodc** · 07-26-2014 11:14 AM

I'm thinking maybe shortening the pipe after the 2 come into 1 and have the exhaust coming straight out rather then dropping down and then out the side. I wonder if that will help with the top end in getting the exhaust out easier. If I do so I'd most likely rebuild it and make that rear Cylinder come straight out and then loop back. Then the exhaust can would come straight back out through the top instead of down below the rear cylinder.

The Can would connect where the Yellow line is.

**Nubs** · 07-27-2014 11:25 AM

If ya want to rework that pipe that's cool but ain't gonna make any real difference on the RPMS, I know ya bored out that carb and I have never tried to do

somethin' is not right with that carb is gonna be My 2 cents. buy er' borrow a 42mm W/ eccel pump and my gut is tellin' Me Your problem will go away.
Don't mean to sound like a pick but

sometimes one just needs to spend the money, if it don't help I'll buy it from ya and Your out nuttin'

I buy them from here all the time.

Mikuni HSR42 TM42 42mm Flat Slide Pumper Carburetor Spigot TM42 6 | eBay