HDPE Questions...

[Storms]

An thanks for all the answers so far.

Cool Beans!!!

Thanks Larry, an everyone else!

[duckhunt81]

Thanks for the link LarryW. Seems to be a good idea!

The more I read on this site, the bigger my dreams get!!

[ygmir]

I posted some hdpe welding photos and such in the gallery......
for repairs........

I'd say, for repairing cracks, my old soldering iron worked just fine........

Are buckets that hard to come by?

Usually, house painters have tons. I've gotten many for free.
also, heavy equipment owners and shops.
Most all 5 gal buckets are hdpe.

I wonder if an iron would work?..........

good luck

Henry

[hydromike]

I'm way too absent... I should check the board more. Sorry dudes.

I never really did a writeup of the process, but it's straightforward enough that anybody can accomplish it. Basically, my HDPE came in two sheets (1 sheet would be better, I think). You don't need a press at all, since the plastic is extremely maleable when heated with a run of the mill heat gun. As I said, you don't need a press, but I did all of the work on mine using the help of gravity. I began the process by aligning the sheet(s) (we'll just assume for the sake of this paltry writeup that it's a single sheet; really makes no difference) on the bottom of the machine.

On the Attex, as with most other amphibs, the center of the machine is higher than the chain troughs. I took a length of 2x6 (it fit well, and I had it on hand) and supported the HDPE along the length of the machine, essentially jacking up the entire machine by the HDPE. Of course, this starts to bow the HDPE considerably. After that, I started to heat the HDPE with the heat gun at the center of the point that it bowed along each side. Pretty soon (minimum of 10-15 minutes of heating on *EACH* side), the machine began to sag back down to mother earth, forcing the hot HDPE to conform to the bottom of the body where the jacks were supporting it.

After this point, I riveted the bajesus out of the skid plate to where it was good and tight along the body. At this point, the task at hand is to wrap each side that's bowed down (see pics) back up to the body. The process is basically the same, but you just need to put jack pressure on each side (floor jacks work great) and heat up the area where the sheet needs to bend. As before, once it's up flush, rivet the heck out of it (be sure to countersink your rivets!!!). The last bit is to simply wrap the front and back end up, rivet again, and you're in business! These plates are really an amazing asset. It's truely difficult to hurt the machine once it's installed. The cool thing about the thick HDPE is that it's far too soft to really "crack". Hit it with a hammer when it's 0 degrees F out and it just looks at you. It scratches and gouges readily, but you can jack it up with a bottle jack without fear of hurting it. Run it straight into a rock. Run over a log. Anything. It's a lot of effort, but that's all it is. It's a cheap, really clean job.

Sorry I didn't respond earlier.

~m

[Storms]

Thanks for the write-up HydroMike.

Much appreciated!!!!

[E-K-C]

IM A HDPE TEC. AND ON COILED PIPING THEY RUN IT THRU ROLLERS THAT GENERATE SOME HEAT TO STRECH IT SO IT LAYS FLAT .IF YOU ARE GOING TO HEAT IT LAY SOMETHING HEAVY ON IT BEFORE IT COOLS SO IT LOOSES ITS MEMORY..IT IS SOMETHING THAT YOU WILL JEST HAVE TO PLAY WITH.. THE SHEET STUFF IS EASIER TO WORK WITH. A LOT OF THE BIGGER PLUMBING HOUSES CAN GET IT IF THEY CARRY THE PIPING..SOME OF THEM CAN EVEN GET IT WELDED TO YOUR SPEC. WITH A EXTRUDER GUN , WHICH IS LIKE A MIG WELDER ,THAT USES HDPE WIRE... I HOPE THIS HELPS E-K-C

Jest Wanted To Let You Know also ---Do not Use A Open Flame On Hdpe It Is A Petroleum Product And Will Burn Quickly...:

[evil8x8]

If anyone wants a section of yellow HDPE gas pipe to make repairs with, let me know. My dad gets it from work, so I can get you guys some.

[Storms]

Well, all last week, I tried flattening out a pc of HDPE plastic bucket, but to no end. It didn't work, and I used two different heat guns. All it did was warp out of control, not go flat, like I had hoped. My heat gun goes between 200-1000 degrees, but it didn't work to flatten out the HDPE, so I borrowed a neighbor's heat gun, which goes all the way up too 1450 degrees. Same effect. I just threw it all away.

Here soon, I have an appointment with a Plastics Manufacturing Rep. who I plan on asking if they make a plastic sheet of some kind, that can be molded (layed) under a heat gun. The windshield frame that I'm building (steel), I wish to cover the front and sides, with 1/8" thk. plastic, and then I also want to make a weather/dust shield for a powerpoint box I want to mount on the front of the windshield frame. Plastic would work well for this, as it's lighter, so I am keeping my hopes up, but I am prepared to do alot of jury-riggin if need be. I will also ask this rep, if they can cover it (the frame), and if so, how much it would run. I'd rather do it myself, tho, if it's possible, but I am really starting to wonder.

If the plastic won't work for me, then I'll cover the front and sides with something else, and then mold me a weathershield out of Bondo. I hate to do it that way, so I am hoping to find a plastic that will do the job, without any special equipment needed. I already have a shop full of specialized tools. I just don't need anymore.