Thanks a lot for the info. Now that I have a starting point I can do some more research and hopefully make some progress on this.
Thanks a lot for the info. Now that I have a starting point I can do some more research and hopefully make some progress on this.
I may be wrong but I think both Mike and WFO are talking about 2 different clutches in the last 2 posts.
The driven or transmission clutch (Convertor) could be out fitted with a green or red spring for 4 stroke use and although the ramping is slightly different it shouldn't matter for now. The drive clutch on the engine has a 30mm tapered bore and would be set at a different rpm engagement point than a 4stroke clutch, springs may be needed to change that ( though I am no clutch guy) and need the bore adapter Mike mentioned. I believe he meant CVT in general and not the brand.
The CVT brand WFO mentioned is a later piece than you would have and is seen on some larger Max and most Argo machines and is a less peppy (casual engagement) clutch set up.
Correct me if I am wrong fellas.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
No, you are right. Your post definitely helped to clarify things.Originally Posted by ARGOJIM
Wow, thanks Jim! That really makes this process straight-forward from here. Now I just have to see if my engine sells on CL.
Progress!
The past couple weeks have been great in many ways, including some relevant to this site.
With the help of money from my birthday and a small loan from my generous older brother, I was able to order all of the basic necessities to get my machine going. I bought a clutch from blink115 on this forum, and ordered a throttle cable, then picked up my fluids, nuts and bolts to get the upper on (which I somehow got too few of), along with other odds and ends. Oh yeah... and a 440cc Honda Clone lol.
So yesterday my dad and I started prepping for heart surgery, we threw my 4 good tires on, got the machine off the trailer it was sitting on and drug it to the slab we park on. I have to say, I've never been so satisfied to see something getting towed. To think of how long this machine had been without its own tires to stand on, let alone roll, is really something.
Fast forward to today, I goofed up by cutting my right side drive chain too short, but was able to salvage it with an extra master link, then we cut off the old bolts for the engine mount, and the redneck cooler-rack that occupied the rear seat brace, then threw the clutch on the engine and did a dry fit, everything lined up really well, and will be perfect when we get a permanent engine mount. Now all that's left should be throwing my left side drive chain on, getting a mounting plate for the engine fabbed up, changing my tranny fluid and filling the engine with oil, then getting lugs on the center tires. After that it's shakedown time!
Pictures: Hustler Resto - Album on Imgur
Glad you're making some progress on the machine, hadn't seen an update in a while was wondering how it was coming along. It looks a little rough but not so far gone that it can't be made to run again. Except for some of the cracks I see in the pics my last 950 was in similar shape but was brought back. There are some cool mods you can do to the machine if you can weld and since you're talking about building an engine mount I'm betting you can. One that I think would be best to do now, while you are fabbing the engine mount, is to brace the transmission. The nature of skid steering puts a lot of torque on the xmission mounts and there are plenty of horror stories on here about housings lost due to that. Do a search for t20 bracing and read up on it. The split shift is another good one but they are a little more complex to do on a hustler if you want to keep both shift levers under the driver seat. Glad to see things going well, hang in there!
DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION
Thanks! The upper body is definitely the worst part of the machine, I plan on picking up a plastic welder from Harbor Freight as soon as I can, then I can make everything on the body nice and sturdy again. As far as transmission bracing, I definitely think that'll be on the to-do list. Yesterday I found out that the left side transmission mount is already wallowed out a bit, so I really can't afford to leave it be. Speaking of wallowed out, I also should probably weld up my pinned axles before I'm having to replace them altogether. Split shifters would definitely be a convenient thing to have, I'll have to think about doing that.
I'm to that point where I'm really getting anxious about driving it for the first time, and I'll definitely try to keep this thread updated now that the project is really moving forward.
OH, everybody on here who has ever done a restore can identify with being anxious for the first ride but don't be in too much hurry and omit something that could keep the first ride from being all the fun it could be. If the axle holes are wallowed out, definitely fix them while you're in the build mode. Chain tensioners are another issue , Hustler tensioners were known for not being the best feature on the machine and were almost impossible to keep tight. Once you have all those figured out and you're ready to install the chains here's a trick I learned. Hustler sprockets are not always exactly centered on the axle sleeves, which can cause excessive chain stress and premature stretch, or even break chains if not addressed and improperly adjusted. With the sprockets installed on the axles and the machine on blocks so they can be rotated, hold something stationary, for a pointer, close to the tips of the sprocket teeth. Spin each axle slowly and watch the sprocket if you see the tips getting closer to the "pointer" mark an arrow on the side of the sprocket from the axle toward the high spot. Repeat this on the corresponding sprocket. When you install your chains point the arrows in the same direction (I usually pointed them level toward the front). You've just clocked the sprockets. Repeat for each set of sprockets and then tension your chains. Usually even after going through all that you might still observe the chains getting tight then loose then tight as you roll the axles, this is due to them not being off center the same amount when welded up during manufacturing. There isn't much you can do about that but the process I just talked you through will have it to an as-good-as-you-can-get-it condition. I learned this trick after building some very unforgiving tensioners then popping a brand new chain.
DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION
Yeah, I'm definitely trying to keep myself grounded and not get in a hurry, thanks for the words of encouragement there. I'm hoping we can get the machine over to my grandfather's place this weekend and get some of the welding done, we're having to borrow his welder since we don't have one. The machine actually came with the chains installed, but I have noticed the odd slack that you're mentioning, so I'm definitely going to follow your advice and get all the chains back out and properly adjusted. I'd hate to break a chain since I don't have the biggest budget for this project, at this point it's a blessing that I've even made it this far. I'll also probably have to break down and pick up a set of rollers for the tensioners, since the chain has eaten into most of them.
After a bit of a break, some progress has been made. Last Saturday my dad and I got my new engine fired up for the first time on our "test stand", cut the plate steel we'll be using for the motor mount, and some other odds and ends. Still to do is clocking the sprockets/tensioning chains, getting fluid in the transmission, bracing the transmission, finalizing the motor mount, and welding up the axle pins. Then I should at least be ready for a test ride!
I do have a quick question though, I've never given the machine a good cleaning, and I've really been wanting to do that lately. My plan is to take out the chains (going to have to do it anyway when I clock the sprockets), spray everything down with degreaser/dishsoap, then rinse with the hose and dry with a leaf blower. So my question is.. Is a T20 case waterproof enough to stand up to garden hose pressure? Or do I have to get it out of the machine before I do my cleaning?
Last edited by TravisW; 04-04-2016 at 01:21 PM.
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