Hustler 950 running slow

  1. Welcome to 6x6 World.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31

Thread: Hustler 950 running slow

  1. #1

    Hustler 950 running slow

    I have a hustler 950 with a 20 hp Briggs engine and t20 trans. Top speed is about 7 mph. Belt is fine, chains are tight, spark plugs are new. It seems to be choppy turning as well. It also seems to run smoother and faster in reverse. Anyone have any suggestions or have had similar issues? Thanks

  2. #2
    One more thing - the RPM's are getting up. In other words at full throttle and the rpm's up it is still only going about 7 mph. Belt is relatively new and has the typicaly 1" to 1 1/2" deflection midway between. Could this be a clutch issue? Previous owner replaced an 18hp Briggs with this 20hp I/C twin engine. I don't think it ever did run correctly since he installed it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
    Posts
    2,604
    I would start out with a band adjustment. do a search for "band adjustment" and start reading posts till you have an understanding of how its done
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the info! I read up on adjusting the bands and received some info regarding the plungers. I noticed the top/bottom plunger on the right side were sticking out about 1/2 inch and they were not responding to pushing or pulling on the right lever. I took the U bracket pins off and was able to push the top and bottom right plungers in with my finger. I adjusted the bands as instructed with an in/ft torque wrench and homemade adjustment tools. I just used two finish nails that were about 5/16" thick and held them and spaced them together with duct tape. It seems to me the purpose of the adjuster tool is to keep the 5/16" space between the t20 and the u bracket bars and also to give you the clearance needed to maintain the socket on the bolt head. I am not sure, there may be more to it than that. Anyway, when I was done the right top/bottom plunges and lever seemed to work in line with the left counterparts. Top/bottom right plungers were recessing about flush with the openings and responding to push and pulls on the right lever. So I thought I was onto something. However, when I started it up I noticed that even thought the right side plungers were moving in and out, the vehicle did not move, it actually moved very little with the lever pushed all the way forward. However, pushing just the left lever forward caused the vehicle to move forward. So now I am thinking there is more to it than the adjustment. I reviewed the t20 rebuild in the "how to section" of this site. It seems very detailed. I consider myself a pretty handy guy, but I also know a little knowledge can be dangerous. If I crack this thing open how much work can I expect? Will I be replacing bands or can I assume I will be replacing drums and bearings and whatever else? will I need to purchase any "specialty" tools. The left side of the transmission seems to be working fine. Can I just take the right side apart and diagnose and fix this side? or do I need to take the left side apart as well?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
    Posts
    2,604
    now that you know the procedure, it's time to cheat. run each bottom plunger bolt in 2 turns and try it again. don't put too much stock into how far plungers stick out of the case relative to each other. also look over all your linkages and make sure nothing is keeping the bands from fully engaging. does everything work in reverse? if it all works in reverse, then bands aren't broken.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  6. #6
    That worked! Thank you! Both levers work forward and back. I still can't figure out why speed is maxed out at around 7 mph. I say 7 because I am just a bit faster than my son's 5 mph ride on. Engine rpms are up, belt is tight enough. Maybe there are some issues or adjustments that can be done to the 20 hp Briggs and stratton I/c engine?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,052
    What is up?

    What size tires.


    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    2,968
    Also, are you sure the clutches are cycling through their ranges under load (when you drive it versus watching them when the machine is at a standstill)? You could have a sticky primary or secondary or issues with the rollers in the primary.

  9. #9
    I see the clutch (attached to the t20 with the spring) closing as I give it more gas while driving. however I don't see any difference in the chain speed coming off the t20? I think I need to learn how the clutch works. Do you know of any online literature or videos? Must be the clutch. Engine runs fine, I just put new plugs in. Also, reverse seems to be a little faster than forward. Thanks for all the info.
    Last edited by Dino; 04-24-2016 at 09:34 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    129
    I'm not 100% sure but the spring inside the driven clutch might be worn, as far as I know those clutches are torque-sensing, so if the spring is worn it might not be engaging all the way. Or like hydromike said it could be an issue with the rollers in the primary. Unfortunately your guess is as good as mine when it comes to finding literature, knowing the model of your clutch(es) would help a lot.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts