Axle Removal

[Brentd27]

I intend on flipping the inner bearings correctly. There are locking inside the frame on the inner bearings. Each of the locking collars has one threaded hole for the set screw, and one hole for the punch, but at least one locking collar is missing the set screw. There are no collars at all outside the body, or between sprockets and inner frame. The chain alignment looked good when I took them off. Nothing canted or twisted, nothing binding. They all moved smoothly. Pretty sure these inners are the "Tractor Supply" bearings.

[dirtdobber]

Check to see if the locking collars on the outside bearings are turned to the inside of the machine. You need to get a setscrew to replace the one missing.

Also, when you flip the inner bearing over you need to flip the bearing in the bearing housing so the lock collar stays on the inside of the frame. This will maintain the same alignment for your chain. If you don't flip the bearing in the housing, the lock collar will then be on the outside of the inner frame and your axle will have to move out the thickness of the lock collar......goofing up your chain alignment.

[Brentd27]

Well, there are locking collars on the outside of the outer bearings. Unfortunately I'm having heck with the rear two axles. Someone welded a flat plate motor mount across the original motor mounts and I can't get anything on the bolt heads to unbolt the bearings. Unlocking the inner collars is out of the question with the frame as it is. Spent 4 & a half hours working on it this weekend and got ONE bolt loose. I'm going to have to cut that rigged motor mount out without melting the body. Grumble grumble grumble...

[Mike]

You can always fill the tub up with water to help with the cutting. I also have laid some thin sheet metal in my tub to help protect from the direct heat when grinding for extended periods of time.

[ARGOJIM]

Or drill an access hole.

[Brentd27]

Finally got one of the troublesome rear axle inner bearings removed. Helps if I use metal cutting discs in my angle grinder instead of masonry cutting discs...

Anyway, I got the bearing out, and subsequently ruined it by hammering on the wrong part.

That being said, after examining this bearing, I am fairly sure that 1) it's not the right bearing, and 2, it can't be flipped in the flange to make it work correctly.

Here's some pics of the bearing in question. Here are the pics of the bearing:

Flange:
flange-rear.jpgflange-front.jpg

Insert:
insert-rear.jpg
insert-front.jpg

Grease ports on insert:
insert-grease-ports.jpg

The "retaining collar" is actually built in to this bearing.

[dirtdobber]

Brentd,

Will the bearing physically fit in the housing in a flipped position? I understand the grease groove will be on the opposite side but otherwise will it fit? If so, there are 2 things to consider. First, I believe the new bearings will come with a grease plug opposite the groove that may allow greasing once the plug is removed. The second thing is that the correct bearings and flanges are not greaseable. The stamped two piece flanges on my machine don't have alimights. If you go this route, pre-grease the bearings with a hyperdermic needle -- you'll be surprised how much grease it will hold. I'm not too worried about the life of the bearing as it is not running in a high speed or high temp situation, and it should stay dry. If you have enough water in the tub to get up on the bearing you've got bigger problems!

[Brentd27]

Well, I have 3 of the 6 axles out. The remaining 3, the sprockets are STUCK. I have also learned just how hard on a body a slide hammer is. Forgot to take my air compressor back to the workshop with me over the weekend, so I couldn't use the air chisel on the sprockets. Maybe next weekend.

[Mike]

I would cut the axles and save the sprockets if you can. It will probably be cheaper that way. Once you get the sprocket and stuck axle out together, you should be able to use a press to get them apart.

[Brentd27]

Just wanted to post an update here. Out of frustration, I cut one of my axles with a stuck sprocket, then pressed the axle out of the sprocket. I was going to cut the other one, but in the meantime I was in Harbor Freight and saw a 5ton hydraulic gear puller for$69.99, and I had a 25% off coupon. Decided it was worth it to give it a try. It slid that sprocket off the axle like it was nothing. The hardest part was getting the puller into position where it was tight enough to stay in place while I grabbed the jack handle. Big rubberband around the arms helped, but a second set of hands would have been easier. Hopefully this will help out anyone else that has stuck sprockets in the future.