Max IV top

[wommy]

As I don't know how to post pics here I can give a link to a photo of a top I made for my max4 here in Aus.
MAX ATV Australia
Then click NEWS, then Max in Australia. The last pic is the top fitted, the screen fits around the frame at the front, it is clear plastic as in soft top 4x4 windows, surrounded by canvas same as top. Held in place with velcro. God bless the Swiss, Velcro and chocolate, all a person needs to survive.
I can give measurements if required. remember this is a sun/rain top, not a roll bar. I made it this way as it only takes a few minutes to remove or replace.
There is no action in the forum as yet, Maxes are very new in Australia. But it would be good if you registered there for future reference. When we get the machines running here there should be plenty action, and we are a resourcefull mob. All the best Rob

[Marc]

I have a nearly new white top with doors and a used windscreen for a Max IV but i need both for a Max II. Sadly i live in germany so here is noone whou could trade off with me. And i cant use it on my MaxII.
Thats a little bit ironic or?

[courtney]

hey eddie

did you ever get the top made for your max? i did not see in your gallery pics

[westkymaxiv]

Yes I got the top finished it looks awesome! I will try to get some photos. It was a pain to make but its done and Im very pleased with how it looks.

[westkymaxiv]

ok they are not very close up but I have some pictures uploaded of the top. I also added a universal Wiper motor to my Homemade Lexan windshield. It works great.

[hdble]

I went to the gallery and took a look at your top, it looks great.
You and your mom did a nice job

[Mike]

That top looks great!

[getwilde]

I used my sister's electronic Kenmore sewing machine to sew a new top and sides for my MaxIV with roll-bar. Initially, I tried using my wife's Simplicity Pro-- but I spent most of my time rethreading the needle and clearing thread jams. As a pattern, I used the old, cracked, torn cover that it came with. I do still have basic measurements on paper but I don't see any way that they could be used to recreate another cover. Now I'm wishing I would have transferred the entire pattern to craft paper or something.

It turned out to be a MUCH larger job than I'd expected... I probably spent ~20 hours sewing. Then again, it was the first time I'd sewn anything in my life (and maybe the last). Materials cost ~$120.

I've attached a photo taken with my cell-phone. I'll try to get some better ones.

A few tips that might help others:
1. Make sure to use snaps that are aluminum or otherwise rust-proof. We didn't... and they're already starting to show brown spots. I'll probably replace them this spring.
2. Boat/marine/awning supply store was a good place to get #10 zipper, clear vinyl, and heavy canvas. Zipper was approx $1/ft.
3. We wanted camo-pattern canvas, though, and found that at a outdoor products store. We bought Cordura with a shiny waterproofing on the backside. Approx $18/yard. It's remained waterproof for 3 months now. I'm surprised how much it grows and shrinks. It sags a bit when it gets wet. It gets really tight when it warms up/dries out. I'm not sure if there's a material that's better for this. But it's been great as far as keeping the water out.
4. In colder climates, use thinner vinyl for windows, to prevent cracking. We're here in the Rocky's, and I used .016". Look for UV-stabilized vinyl. $15/yard.
5. We found heavy thread at a local Apholstry supply shop. Thick, black, 5000ft or something. I didn't use anywhere near that much, but it's the smallest roll they sold. $23
6. When sewing, be sure to use a longer thread length for attaching the vinyl. If the threads are too small, you've effective "perforated" your vinyl, and made it weak along the seam, and it might tear when stressed.
7. When sewing the zipper to the vinyl, make marks on both, every few inches, to keep them lined up during sewing. I found that the vinyl REALLY streched under the sewing foot, so if I hadn't made those marks prior, I would have ended up with several extra inches of vinyl extending beyond the end of the zipper.
8. I used a "blind hemming foot" on the sewing machine. It had a little extension off the side that I could use as a guide to keep my seams straight with the folds of canvas.

[Mike]

Those are some great tips. Thanks for taking the time to write them out. I will probably try to sew one up one of these days for my Max II. Have you had any trouble with that material and tree limbs?

[getwilde]

I used my sister's electronic Kenmore sewing machine to sew a new top and sides for my MaxIV with roll-bar.

I'm back. Six years later, and I'm needing to do some repairs. The canvas has held up well. So have the zippers. The clear vinyl? Not so much. The vinyl on the "driver's side" door -- which is the door we use twice daily in the winter -- has cracked/broken in a few places -- probably from flexing in cold weather. The clear vinyl on the rear window has discolored/cracked -- probably from being exposed to more extreme temps near the motor. So I'll probably be borrowing my sister's sewing machine again in the next few weeks before snow starts falling.

OR... preferably... I can find a better solution. Are there "door kits" available for Max IVs? It would be nice to not deal with the zippers, snaps, constantly-flexing vinyl, etc. I see this photo from the gallery; any idea who manufactures it? Alternatively, has anyone attempted to make their own doors? Maybe bend aluminum conduit or weld together lightweight frames, sew/stretch fabric and vinyl over the top, and somehow attach to the roll cage with some sort of hinges?

Also, has anyone attempted a plexiglass rear window? Or a glass rear window? I was surprised how much louder the motor sounded as soon as the rear vinyl started to develop cracks and holes! Our kids ride in that back seat; I'd like to isolate them from the noise as much as possible.

Thanks in advance!