Max II Floorboard Mod

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Thread: Max II Floorboard Mod

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Posts
    25
    It is so much easier to access the interior of the machine with this mod. I did it like liflod did at the shifter hole. Otherwise removing the entire floor/seat assembly is a real #*@#*^$.
    Bob

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Carterville, Illinois
    Posts
    253
    So I'm not the only one that considers removing the floorboard a real pain. I've been wrestling with these floorboards for a couple of years and it kills my back and never looks smooth or nice.

    I wish the factory would change the design to incorporate the floorboard and seat as two pieces. The mod looks easy enough to do. I just wanted to make sure I did it in the best spot.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Carterville, Illinois
    Posts
    253
    I did the floorboard mod this afternoon. The hardest part was scribing the line. It does make handling the floorboard a whole lot easier. I should have done this mod a long time ago.

    Zero expense and makes it much easier to get the floorboard in and out and access the battery. It makes hooking up a float charger really quick.

    I'll be doing a few more this week.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Peoria Heights,IL
    Posts
    223
    I know these floor mod posts are old, but I have a couple questions i hope someone can answer. From the posted pictures, I dont see the sides of the floor pan that go up over the wheel well, do you chop that part off also and just make the floor pan a few inches high? also, do you need to reinforce the plastic where the two would meet (by the shifter)? hopefully someone remembers, i def want to do this mod! Thanks!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Jamestown, North Dakota
    Posts
    193
    ^ I 2nd this motion.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,158
    Here is how I did my tan Max 2. It has pull pins welded to the frame that go through the floorboards and are held down by cotter pins.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    266
    I am really liking this thread! Question: looking at Noel Woods "modification", why could the split not be done through the lever openings, making it unnecessary for the floor to lift over the lever/throttle? Or, does the split in front still make it really easy to get the rear floor piece out? Just wondering out loud. I would like to see this in a video. That would clinch it for me.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,158
    I think that would also work. These are fun little machines to play with and modify, and you are only limited by your own imagination and build skills. I built this one this way because the two sections are still sturdy yet easily removed for service. Not to say that way wouldn't be.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    1,153
    If you cut the floor in half, the floor would probably not hold your weight when standing. It would also allow anything on the floor to fall through into the tub.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    266
    I am not sure about you guys, but with me, Murphy is the LAW!. Just last week my 10mm socket dropped and bounced through the lever holes in the floor board! I had to pull the damn seat/floor just to get it, so having an easier to open floor would suit me just fine. As I stated in another post, one reason I am interested in this mod, is I want an easier way to get to the battery to attach a battery maintainer.

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