The tires is what i was talking about. Ask around and someone should have some old rims they could give you for a minimal cost. I have only been in the hobby for a few years and wow the machines and parts you acquire is amazing.
I build my machines on a budget. If you can't respect that you can kiss my Attex
I just finished putting my 1990 back together. I only fooled with one side at a time, so I'd have a guide for general assembly. Some of parts are a really tight fit (like a big block in an early Corvette)... they all go back together, but there's definitely a method to the madness. I'm not too far from you, so if you want to take a look at one that's together to see how everything lines up, let me know. Good luck!
Well, now the work has slow down on this machine and i've only been able to work on it little by little.
I acid washed the gas tank to try and remove the old liner and rust. Worked good, but not good enough. So i deceided to buy por-15s heavy duty tank repair kit with stripper, etcher, cleaner, and liner. Tried the stripper in the tank and it work well, but yet again still did not get all of that old liner out. So i had to do a little disecting. I cut the tank open on the top. Cleaned out the inside with wire brush and wire wheel. Welded the top back on and cleaned and etched the tank. Added liner to tank, rolled around, drained, let sit, painted outside of tank with remaining liner. After set for 96 hours poured gas in and no leaks. Spray painted outside gloss black.
I found a little L bracket at work to use for the throttle. Bolted on near carb, attached using throttle stops the engine already had on it. Will attach pictures later.
The emulsion tube, jet and air filter adapter i ordered was for the wrong engine. Some how i ordered for the 6.5hp engine and not the 13 so now i'm waiting on new stuff for that.
Began wiring up the top lid. Added key switch from engine to lid. Added hour meter. (not sure how to hook up to only read hours when engine runs, may have to buy another hour meter that works off of spark plug wire and an antenna).
Removed old, wet, rotted seats and wood. Cut out new wood seat backs. Coated in wood sealer and painted brown. Wrapped in MAX4 HD camo 1000d cordura waterproof frabric. They look sweet and add a nice touch. Bolted the seats back on floor board and lid with 1" lag screws.
Still waiting to get 2 new wheels and 2 more tires. Gotta finish the wiring. Waiting on more engine carb parts to finish that up. Then i gotta wire in winch, bilge pump, and lights.
MAN OH MAN, what a great rebuild you got going on there!!
HUSTLEMANIAC and a HONORARY MEMBER of the
Got new air filter adapter to install open filter. Removed gas tank from top of engine. Installed walbro vacuum fuel pump to body. Lined up new muffler to be welded to exit inbetween top lid slats. Did a little more wiring. Still gotta get two wheels and tires. Movig slow now but I will get it done sometime.
Looks nice, you're doing a great job. The finish line is in sight.
Well I'm in the finishing stages. I welded up my new muffler to an adapter plate for the exhaust. Still need to find a piece of 1 5/16" pipe for a turn out pipe. I got all the wiring finished up, secured in place. I still haven't a clue how to hook up the hour meter to only work during running. Also the charge wire of the predator engine has 2 amps also coming out of it so when I hook it to the ammeter it reads 2 amps. May drain the battery if I leave it hooked up. Not sure. I still have some finishing touches but my main problem is now I can't get the engine to run. I have a pulse pump hooked up to the valve cover. The original hole where the vent for the crankcase was is now open since the open filter intake doesn't have a spot for it. But. Here's my delemia. The engine won't run unless full choke. I checked and made sure the pulse pump works and it spits fuel out normally I would think. Is it possible the pulse pump is to much for the originally gravity fed carb? Or possibly I'll have to t into the fed line to the carb and run it back to tank if intact it is flooding the carb. No fuel is running out of the carb but it smells rich. I know someone can help me out on this problem. Thanks
I would remove the pulse pump-plug it then retry,hopefully you already fixed this problem
My 1992 MaxII uses a "normally open" oil pressure switch to run the hour meter. The switch has two connections, one goes to the hot side of the starter solenoid and the other goes to the positive side of the meter, the neg side of the meter goes to the ground stud on the ammeter. When the engine is running the oil pressure closes the switch and provides power to the meter.
Last edited by m38inmaine; 09-03-2012 at 02:27 PM.