Max IV, T20 or clutch issue?

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Thread: Max IV, T20 or clutch issue?

  1. #1

    Question Max IV, T20 or clutch issue?

    So after months of overhauling my max, today was the day to fire it up and take a ride. After about 5 minutes of cruising around my property and getting almost back to my garage the machine would no longer turn either direction. It would creep forward but no left/right steering. So much for the maiden voyage.

    I'm sure someone has an idea where I need to start troubleshooting. Anyone Bueller.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
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    3,286
    Check to see if the clutches are engaging in nuetral. The. Go from there. A wet belt could even cause what you describe.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  3. #3
    @@ amphibious drew, thanks for the guidance.

    So I understand that there are no dumb questions on this forum so I'm going to ask.....How do I tell if the clutches are engaging in neutral?

    I do know while looking at it that the engine clutch or whatever that part is called, it was drawing in engaging the belt as the RPM's increased which seems to make sense to me. It was starting to rain, a light rain during the 5 minute ride, its possible that the belt got wet. I didn't smell anything burning like rubber or ATF.

    Could also be that I have too much slack in the drive belt. It's the stock cog belt for the Max iv that I bought from RR. I removed all the engine shims previously installed with the old thin belt and have the engine mounted on the engine platform.

    For my own edification what are the symptoms of a failing T20?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
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    Just make sure the belt is going up and down on the clutches. It starts at the bottom of the drive and rises to the top, and does the opposite on the driven. It could be a too loose, but width is more important. 5 minutes of rain shouldn't make a huge difference, and you would have probably heard a sqeal. It is possible for the bands to delaminate. This happens sometimes when different fluids are used in the transmision and the glue dissolves that holds the friction material on. That could explain your symptoms, and could only be verified by splitting the t20 back open. Did the engine rev fine the entire time, or was it lacking power as well. The throttle cable can slide if it's not tight enough causing limited revs. I hope it's something cheap and simple like that for you.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  5. #5
    Yep Drew the belt was going up and down on the clutches, seemingly opposite of one another. There wasn't any squealing from the belt or the clutches while all this was going on. The engine revved up and down just fine while this was happening. I was able to drive it straight ahead only, no turning even though I could see the belt moving up and down on the clutches. When I pulled the left lever back while in forward, the left side wheels stopped and only momentum caused a slight turn to the left.

    I went through every piece of this machine prior to reassembly except the T20. I have said it over and over again that it was the one uncertainty of the whole build. Did I mention that I never drove the Max or saw it operate and basically bought it sight on seen.

    Prior to reassembly I dumped about a gallon of grey fluid from the T20. After emptying I poured a quart in and rinsed and rolled and dumped x4 before adding the ATF and diff fluid. After the last rinse the fluid was coming out red. Could be that the previous owner destroyed the T20 with too much fluid?? There weren't any ATF leaks on the T20 or in the belly during disassembly nor any saturated areas around the output shafts.

    I guess I'll see if I can find a thread on here about the belt tension/adjustment and see if I'm close with my belt, hopefully that's the issue but it doesn't explain why it would run fine then suddenly not turn at all. The belt is supposed to be the stock belt and if I had to guess I would say it's a little more than 1" wide.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Kotzebue, Alaska
    Posts
    1,209
    A bit of rain won't cause the belt to slip. I was in constant rain for about five hours a few days ago. No issues but a few squeeks, which is normal.
    I did get "tons" of water sloshed over the Max IV July 4. Gallons if water spilled over our laps and into the left (belt side) engine vent screen and on the belt... no power, just belt slipage. We did move mere inches at a time and got out. Tide was high, winds were high, waves were high. The good Lord was with us that ride!
    Once the water was drained out the machine ran fine.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
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    3,286
    What you described sounds like gear oil was in your t20. Then you switched to ATF like a proper aatv owner. The problem is going to be your bands delaminated. I almost guarantee it. On the plus side, you caught it fast by asking the right questions on here. Your going to need case half gaskets and O-rings for the plungers, but your case needs split open and the bands sent out for relining. Don't try and drive it anymore for you are at risk of scouring your drums if you do.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    I would check you belt tension first, it should be 1-1/2 inches measured pushing on one side of belt only. If that seems good you have other issues. How much travel do your sticks have and did you adjust the bands or just start off with where they were?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
    Posts
    1,456
    Your driven clutch may be turning on the input shaft if the key sheared. Everything still turns but no power to the transmission. The factory belt is 1 3/16" wide and should sit nearly level with the outer edge of the driven clutch. If you have a Briggs engine they had 2 1/8" thick washers between the mount and the engine from the factory. The washers we're there to set the belt tension. I would tear down the t20 as it sounds like it may have had water in it. To see if the input key is missing put trany in forward and rotate the driven clutch. If the clutch is turning on the shaft the clutch will rotate and the two washers behind the clutch will not be turning. Hope you find the problem.

  10. #10

    Good Ideas

    Lots of great points from everyone for sure.

    I need to see if the washers on the driven are moving or not. Need to check the belt tension after reinstalling the factory installed washers. And I'm pretty sure the belt that I have is the correct belt based on the dimensions provided.

    I'm out of town for the next few days but as soon as I get back I'll check out all these recommendations and suggestions and get back to ya'll.

    I'm just hoping this isn't as catastrophic as it sounds like it might be, forever the optimist.

    Thanks again for all the guidance folks, much appreciated.

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