center axel

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Thread: center axel

  1. #1

    center axel

    I All
    I am trying to remove all my axels (2000 MAX II)and all I have left is my center ones. I do not see any set screws or any other type of retainer clips on the triple sprocket assy on the axel. I was able to release the axel form the inner bearing retainer but the triple sprocket assy will not budge. the axels are not corroded.

    Please can any one give me some advice on how to remove it?
    Thanks
    Larry

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
    Posts
    1,456
    Scrape the sides clean to the axle and check for a snapring. 2000 has a chance of being a very early snapring axle. I've seen the center with a springs and the corners screwed. If not scrape hard between the sprockets for a setscrew. There's something lust not sure what holding the axles.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    shenendoah valley,va.
    Posts
    2,631
    msa, i have a 2000 max 2 and just removed the center axle triple sprocket. mine had a top set screw then another one under that. not sure yours is the same.clean it well, sometimes they are hard to see. hope this helps. john boy va.

  4. #4
    Hi John
    I found it after cleaning it real good. it appears that some one has ground the set screw flush. and drilling it out is not going very well at the moment. If all goes well I will have it drilled or cut it out tomorrow. the #60 sprocket for the center drive wheel is AFU so I need a new assy anyway.

    thanks
    Larry

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Kotzebue, Alaska
    Posts
    1,209
    Dang, you sure have been fighting set screws! Reading your accounts do teach me/others what to be aware of though. Good luck on the rebuild.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

  6. #6
    Yes the set screws are kicking my but. I plan on using grade 8 bolts and safety wiring them to the sprocket and I will also use plenty of antiseize. The idea of a double set screw with the top one ground down flush with no choice but to drill them out is just plain foolish IMO.

    Larry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
    Posts
    1,456
    From the factory the 1/4" setscrews were double and I've seen a lot of them fail with the tip broken off. The second design is a 5/16" dog point setscrew. You see these until the snapring design came out. If I have usable sprocket hubs I drill out threads and tap to 5/16". Whipper told me he uses dog point screws that stop flush with hubs, antiseize on them with a hose clamp over it so it won't back out. I think this is a good idea even though I rarely find a setscrew type that is reusable.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    shenendoah valley,va.
    Posts
    2,631
    what i found out when trying to drill mine out, i wasn't going to save the sprocket so i drill a larger hole in the sprocket hub right next to the set screw. then i was able to just tap the set screw to the hole side and it came right out. trying to drill the set screw out itself is real tuff. it's very !! hard. good luck john boy va.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cleveland,Oh.
    Posts
    1,589
    [QUOTE=john swenson;186801] so i drill a larger hole in the sprocket hub right next to the set screw. then i was able to just tap the set screw to the hole side and it came right out.

    Thanks John!! I really like that one!

  10. #10
    Hi All
    Thanks for all the advice. I ended up using a dremel tool and a square rotary bit and it took care of the set screw issue in about 40 minutes. I did the oversize hole and tap on another sprocket the other day. Thanks to this forum everyone has a way that worked for them and I had to use all of them.

    awesome advice on the 5/16 screw and clamp. I will be using that one for sure when I go back together.

    WHIPPER if you see this can you please PM me I am looking for some sprockets. I sent yu a PM and have not had a response back yet.

    thanks all

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