Max IV frame repair and upgraded T-20 mount

[whipper-ag]

[amphibious drew]

Problem solved.

Whipper

Thanks whipper. That means a lot coming from you. BTW, thanks for the use of your jig as well. I have my Attex frame and flanges all drilled out to put my splined axles in. As soon as my sprockets come in, I'll have her going again.

[amphibious drew]

Just finished putting the engine back in. Took her out for an early morning test drive as well. She seemed to do good. It sure felt great to get behind those laterals again!

[Heaven's Pavement]

Amphibious Drew do you, or anyone, have drawing or link to those rear plates.
Also my T20 has studs in the trans, ant suggestions to remove them?
Much thanks

[msafi65]

Double nut the studs and heat the case with propane torch if they won't just come out. The drawings are on this site now. Make sure that you mount the side plates with the lower mount bolts .520 maximum centerline off the top line of the frame. Any lower than that and the rear chains loose some adjustment.

[Heaven's Pavement]

msafi65, thanks for the advice, i did find here for some template pieces, but not the big rear bolt on pieces..hmmm maybe make 2 like the front but extend down to bolt on???
max IV frame upgrade t-20 supports - Amphibious ATV Pictures
its just i really like how beefy those rear ones look

[Rusty-Gunn]

I should have done this mod last year. Turns out the bottom two bolts on the right broke. It causes the T20 to rotate under pressure just enough to cause the primary chain to pop up, then off, the sprocket teeth. I promply took the M-IV home.
I got enough angle iron (bed frame) to use to add a rear bracket like yours.
I should have done this, as you pointed out, before it becomes a problem.
last year one bottom bolt broke, the other one rattled loose, causing a simular issue. I put the loose bolt back but didn't fix the broken one. I now have two broken bolts to deal with. My bad.

Mine had some issues when I got it. I kept trying to patch the problem instead of fixing it properly. There was much research and advise given and sought after. I was originally going to do an upside down shaped U brace over the entire t-20, but never was able to get the piece fabbed. The. While tearing a chief down the idea hit me to modify the braces for extra rear support. If your frame is good for now where the t-20 mounts up, I suggest making a similar brace sooner than later. If you brace it while it's good, it's a really quick and easy job, but wait till it's as bad as mine was and your looking at several hours of extra work putting in and pulling out the transmission and fixing those junked up holes.

[hydromike]

I got enough angle iron (bed frame) to use to add a rear bracket like yours.

Be careful using bed-frame steel Rusty. Most of that material is lightweight spring-steel which is really quite hard, but brittle. It's difficult as hell to drill through with conventional drill bits and has a tendency to crack when under a lot of stress (in my experience, anyway).

I don't want to paint with too broad of a brush, but every piece I've ever come across is similarly miserable to work with. I tried to find a decent reference on the interwebs, but the discussion on this forum gets my point across...

What Kind Of **** Is Bed Frame Rails Made Of - Shop Floor Talk

[Rusty-Gunn]

Mike... I did notice bed frames were hard and diffrcult to drill. I hadn't realized they might be too brittle under stress.
Thanks for the info.