That was probably it. Sprayed the heck out of them with wd40 and wd40 specialist while actuating the valves and was able to take the max out for a few hours today with no issues. Thanks argojim!
That was probably it. Sprayed the heck out of them with wd40 and wd40 specialist while actuating the valves and was able to take the max out for a few hours today with no issues. Thanks argojim!
Meep Meep
How open should my throttle plate get on the max? I don't want to play with my governor too much and accidently blow the motor. I would like a little extra speed out of the machine at max throttle, but the plate only opens up about 1/2 way.
Building a wrap around bumper for it right now out of 2" angle. Probably would have been done over the weekend if I hadn't caught myself on fire with a grinder. Worst part about it is my grinder broke right after. All in good fun though. In the next few weeks, I think I'm going to build some bearing cages. Would like to have a dually setup at some point.
Any one have any ideas to adding an automotive alternator to a Briggs and Stratton motor while keeping the pull rope? I'd like to have a secondary charging system to handle a high output led light bar I picked up, and to power a speaker setup.
I think that's about all the questions I have for now. I'll have more when new crazy, and likely unnecessary, ideas pop up into my head. Thanks
Meep Meep
Ammeter is acting up. Wondering if yall could point me in the right direction. When I first start the machine and give it gas, the ammeter jumps up to about 10 volts. Let off and hit the gas again, but it only hits about 5 volts. Stays around there for the rest of the time out, except when I turn on my lights or winch. Both are run to the battery, and when I turn them on, I get a positive jump in volts until I turn them off again. Put a new battery in it today, and checked all the wiring. Re-grounded a few things due to corrosion, but nothing major. Is this normal behavior for a machine with a bad alternator? Or is something else going on?
Also, when I turn the lights on which are run through the key (factory light setup), it drops the voltage like normal.
It may well be a bad alternator, but the motor doesn't have very many hours on it.
Meep Meep
The ammeter is showing the rate of charge from the alternator, the draw of the starter is calling for a larger charge than the headlights. If after a few minutes of starting the machine and higher rpms the ammeter goes down to near zero the system is fine, when you turn the head lights on the gauge may show a draw at idle but rate of charge at full throttle.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
Have any max 2 owners separated the seat from the floor, and hinged the seat to the frame for better battery accessibility?
Little worried that the floor would be too loose. Any opinions?
Meep Meep
Check out this thread: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-a...board-mod.htmlOriginally Posted by garrett1308
I have mine cut where liflod has his cut and it works our really well. No need for a hinge, the seat sits down in the tub and stays in place as it is. The floorboard fits good as well.
Thanks mike, didn't see that thread. Got it done tonight.
Meep Meep
Been playing with the max for a while now with the 18 horse vanguard but it still doesn't have the power I'd like from it in terms of torque and speed. Based on a quad's speedometer, it'll get up to 15-20 on flat ground. Moved the governor spring further out for more leverage over the governor arm, and am fixing to go check the drive belt for tension and glaze.
Any other things I should look into? Won't be able to test anything for a couple of days; cutting out both front axles due to bad bearings and frozen sprocket tubes. Seems no amount of hammer, air chisel, driving and pb blaster can free them up.
Meep Meep
Need new axles and sprockets for the max. Currently has non splined axles and 22 tooth sprockets. Should I order new splined axles, or just get the non splined ones? Who should I order the axles and sprockets from?
Meep Meep
I would go with the splined axles just to get away from the through-bolts. The downside is just having to order new sprockets as they are $$$. If you do order everything, you can have member Whipper-ag make them for you or you can order factory parts through Max6x6.com | Max Atv Parts | Max Amphibious ATV
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