Rims and tires mounted, but runs like **** since the throttle cable tore.
Gonna remove throttle cable and make sure the engine runs ok when my neighbors aren't asleep. Lol
Rims and tires mounted, but runs like **** since the throttle cable tore.
Gonna remove throttle cable and make sure the engine runs ok when my neighbors aren't asleep. Lol
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First big day out on the lake, love it. Omg I love it.
Even though I took on enough water that the rear sprokets were completely submerged in 5 minutes, I love it.
Questions, I read a butt load on adjusting the bands, and idk I'm pretty sure they are still out of whack. I tightened them down to be equally 5 inches, but my plungers look like they are all set differently. Plus it pulls to the left pretty good.
Also, could my body seal be leaking that bad or is it most certainly my bearings??
That's great
ST400R ATTEX(Smiley)
500 Super Chief
I love the smell of Blendzall in the morning
Glad you're having fun. I wouldn't worry about the plungers just yet. I'd start by measuring tire circumference with the same amount of air in them. Then move around or raise or lower air pressure to get it not to pull to one side. For the leaks I would check the bearings are almost always the place where water enters. I fact just about any used machine needs bearings unless they've recently been changed. You can fill the tub with water to see where the leaks are.
What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
When ever yoy get around to adjusting the bands I highly recommend the band tools sold by Richard's Relics. These tools, along with an ounce-inch (not foot-pound) torque wrench ) works well.
There is another way to adjust the bands that don"t require the band tools but I'm not famuliar with that process.
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.
The tools are easy enough to make as well, I made a set in under 10 minutes when I was setting my machine up.
Most likely the leak is your bearings. Making sure that they are greased up with marine grease will help if they are not too worn.
Borrowing tools is for the weak.
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2000 Max IV, 25hp Kohler Command, 26" Titan Tru Power AT's
1996 Max IV, 18hp Briggs, 24" Serwas
1998 Max IV (project in waiting)
1995/1999 Max II, 16hp Briggs, 21" Rawhides
Hustler 950 (Project in waiting)
I greased em with red synthetic water resistant grease, (good stuff) but I figured out it was mostly cracks and melt-holes around my heat shielding around the exhaust.
Unable to locate a plastic welder, I'm gonna try red RTV silicone for the time being just to see how it holds up.
Eventually I'm gonna fab up a heat shield that's about 1 inch bigger on all corners to cover the melt-holes, and seal it with a gasket.
RTV won't hold very long, if at all. HDPE is a very waxy plastic that until recent advances in epoxy technology could only be fixed with plastic welding, and even now the special epoxy is pretty pricey, so plastic welding is still the cheapest method of repair. Harbor Freight has a couple different plastic welders, one for $40 without an on-board air motor (you have to hook it up to an air compressor), or one for $60 with its own air motor, both capable of reaching high enough temperatures to weld HDPE. You'll have to look elsewhere for HDPE welding rods since I haven't been able to find them there, supposedly zip-ties make good welding stock.
Zip ties! I never though od that
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