Mark, thank you for the info about using grade five bolts. My M-IV has grade five simply because the local hardware store didn't have grade eight bolts, of which I thought would be better( stronger). Eight's are brittle? I didn't think they would be. I'll stick to fives now.
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.
Canadian Zuk... Are you willing to sell drilled-through bolts? There might be a small market here. I am interested. (One of the two bolts that broke on my Max was indeed deep enough to benefit from your drilled bolt tool)
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.
I guess my machine has been in the shop most the time I've owned it, t20 breaking the mounts is an actual problem?!
Originally Posted by Rusty-Gunn
Sure, I'lldo that on here for 6x6 members for the cost of the bolts and shipping. Let me know what you need.
The grade 5 bolts make sense, these were grade 8 bolts. I'll head over to the hardware store and grab some new hardware. Thanks for the tip.
I started my rear mounts today. Made a cardboard template then traced that onto some 3/16" scrap I had lying around and 5 min later I was done. I love my plasma cutter, one of my best investments.
This is a very educational thread. I'm enjoying it a lot. Very interesting.
I like how you made the brackets, very nice and neat.
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.
Canadian Zuk I trust your machine already has the front ears that look like the ones you fabed?
No, actually there are just the bottom 4 bolts and 2 metal straps the run from the top front of the T-20 down to the battery holder. Should there be?? Lol
Here where I'm sitting right now. I have the T-20 threads repaired with Heli-coils and sitting in place. The new mounting ears are bolted onto the T-20 and I'm about to burn them into the frame.
Last edited by Canadian_Zuk; 10-26-2016 at 10:29 PM.
Zuk, the factory welds on them ear brackets up front, like the ones you cut out. They bolt on with those two angled bars at the top front bolts.
Just a note... The front brackets are welded on. I would keep the rear as a bolt-on so you can easily remove the trans. But if welding them on works then so much the better.
Last edited by Rusty-Gunn; 10-26-2016 at 11:11 PM.
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.
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