axle/sprocket bolts

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Thread: axle/sprocket bolts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Taneytown,MD
    Posts
    98

    axle/sprocket bolts

    I have a Max IV I have recently replaced the entire drive train axles, sprockets bearings etc. My old axles had 7/16" diameter bolts holding the sprockets to the axles the new axles which I got from RR had 3/8" diameter holes and came with grade 5 bolts. The bolts on the front axles sheared off I replaced them with new grade 5, then the bolts on the center axles sheared off, I replaced with grade 5. The rear have not sheared as of now I would think they would have went first. My first thought was that I over tightened them and stressed them, so when I replaced them I backed off a little I also have them double nutted. The reason I did that was because the old blots use to come loose.
    THOUGHTS?
    One other thing on the way to my treestand there is an exposed tree root I cross could this have caused it? I do not run tracks.
    THANKS, Dave

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hanover,PA
    Posts
    1,012
    You can try Grade 8 bolts with Nylock nuts.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Taneytown,MD
    Posts
    98
    OK THANKS I will give that a try

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    1,153
    Make sure there are no bolt threads inside the axle or sprocket tubes. Usually I need to buy 3 or 3 1/2 inch bolts to get the shank long enough so that no threads are inside.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
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    1,456
    I have used 7/16" grade 8 for years with nylock nuts. In my experience the 3/8" bolts won't last at all,especially if the axle holes are 7/16. I drill new gear tubes undersize and pass a 7/16" bit through the axle and tube as a unit. If there is no play in the bolts they will last a long time. For stock tubes without any washers welded to the outside I use 3" bolts cut to length to keep threads out of the working points in the axle and tube. I'm surprised the rears didn't go first , they get a lot of load going up hill.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Taneytown,MD
    Posts
    98
    THANKS for ideas Guys. On the next chain adjustment (just put it back together) I am going to drill out all 6 to 7/16" and put in new grade 8 bolts. The new stuff came with 3/8" holes in both the sprocket and axles everything fit good when I put it together. I had a thought about longer bolts to keep the threads out of the hole but did not do it. I am running nyloc nuts a lock washer and a second nut the nuts have not loosened up as of yet.

    These machines are a pain in the butt and fun to work on at the same time. I have had mine for 4 years and have had it apart a few times my wife just shakes her head. Where I run my machine is mostly flat (Marylands eastern shore) a lot of mud,swamp and marsh some flooded woods. It is timber property so there are a lot of logs, dead trees and such. The trails to my stands are pretty clear for the most part I only take the machine to the stand area to retrieve a deer or take something to repair the stand.
    THANKS, Dave

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    1,153
    Use a longer shank bolt. If the 3/8 bolts fit tight, there's no reason to drill them larger. AN bolts are closer tolerance than the off the shelf bolts.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,052
    Quote Originally Posted by msafi65 View Post
    I have used 7/16" grade 8 for years with nylock nuts. In my experience the 3/8" bolts won't last at all,especially if the axle holes are 7/16. I drill new gear tubes undersize and pass a 7/16" bit through the axle and tube as a unit. If there is no play in the bolts they will last a long time. For stock tubes without any washers welded to the outside I use 3" bolts cut to length to keep threads out of the working points in the axle and tube. I'm surprised the rears didn't go first , they get a lot of load going up hill.

    If the sprockets were already 7/16 and the axles are 3/8 there's part of the problem, as whipperag recommends along with liflod the longer "body bound" bolts will help. I'd guess you'll have to go 7/16 unless you can get some cup washers to repair the sprocket holes.
    If your sprockets and axles are 3/8 then follow liflod and go with the longer bolts.


    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Taneytown,MD
    Posts
    98
    The sprockets and axles are brand new maybe 10 hours on them none of the holes have egged. The axles and sprockets came with 3/8" holes in them. I spoke with the lady at Max parts she did some checking and told me the original factory bolts were 3/8" diameter and said they recommend grade #8 to get them at NAPA. I am going to change them to grade 8 first stay with the 3/8" diameter and get the longer shank if they still break then I will drill them out and use 7/16" diameter grade 8. should I use flat washers on ethier side of the bolt ? What are AN bolts ?
    THANKS for all your help.
    Dave

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Taneytown,MD
    Posts
    98
    Well just got back from my week long hunting trip I changed all the bolts to grade 8 with a longer shank as suggested and put it to the test and no problems. THANKS for all your help.
    Dave

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