Fantastic Job!
Fantastic Job!
There like riding on a pillow! I had the 26x12x12 tru-power's and if I lowered the pressure to 1 psi or less the ride wasn't to bad but when I went over a rock or log the tire was on the rim. I was afraid of cutting a sidewall.Originally Posted by ARGOJIM
With the 9" rim and 1.5 psi in the argo's it doesn't touch the rim. I've only tried 1.5 and 3 psi in the tires so far. Side by side with no load on the tires I only lost about 1/2" in height from the tru-powers and 7lbs lighter.
Thanks I've been thinking about them on the Buffalo. Had the 21's which we all know are terrible, the 26's you've explained pretty well and the 25 Rawhide 3's on it, it currently has the 25's on it which ride decent though I've never liked the rebound (no rebounce) from them.
Not sure whether I'll try the 24's or 25's but one of the Argo tires will probably end up on it (unless I start winning some races).
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
Got the rear rack finished. I wound up using a leftover shelf from our root cellar. I shortened it to 41" and rounded the corners, welded strap iron to the bottom to mount the uprights. It's just under 12 lbs and can support my weight when I stand on the rails not that I plan on putting that much on it.
Finished the rain cover for the engine compartment. It fasten's to the bottom of the rack and has clearance all around for air movement. It hangs out the back enough so rain won't drip in ( I hope ).
I riveted some anchors for a strap to the side of the engine compartment, thought it would be a great place to carry tools.
Cleaned up the battery connections and installed an anderson connector for a quick disconnect. I had 2 wires on the negative side and 3 on the positive, moved those to the downstream side of the connector. Put a locking wing nut on the hold down clamp also. Now when we get to the storage place, I can have the battery in and ready to go in seconds with no tools. I'm tossing the idea of putting in a bulb squeeze primer (the kind outboard motors use) right before the fuel shutoff. When we put it in storage for the year, I will shut off the fuel and let it run out of gas then pull the battery to keep charged over the winter. With the primer I can get fuel to the pump faster.
I still need to make a storage cover for it. I was thinking of using 18oz vinyl coated polyester, like the over the road trailers use. It's very tough just not sure how it will hold up to the cold temps. Anybody have any ideas?
The bulb primer is a great back up system, I have a 1971 Land Rover series 2A, and installed a bulb because the mechanical pump was sometimes iffy if not used for a few weeks, but a couple pumps on the bulb and she always starts. My other machine is a Bobcat skidsteer. Usually no prime is needed except when you switch out fuel filters and it takes about 15 pumps to prime up. Years ago I also had a bulb in a Max4 but switched it out for a $20 amazon electric fuel pump and its still working.
Looks like you've put a lot of time and thought into these mods. Nice work!
What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
That's what I wanted to hear! Thanks for the info.
Thanks tbone
Most of this is of no use to most people. I need to keep it as dry as I can inside, don't want to cover it up with a waterproof cover with water inside and let it sit a year until we get back.
It would be solid rust. After waiting a year to get back to the cabin, the faster I can get it running and on the trail the happier I am! My wife will verify that statement!!
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