All the switches came in today. I am thinking of putting them on the left side here though I know they'd be at risk of my knee bumping them, so it's not a final decision yet.
All the switches came in today. I am thinking of putting them on the left side here though I know they'd be at risk of my knee bumping them, so it's not a final decision yet.
Got a bit done today. The three big things is getting the carb fully hooked up, choke and all, and changed out the transmission fluid if you can call it that and adjusted the chains. Maybe I'll get it fired up tomorrow?
I pulled the upper plug on the T20 and stuck a suction tube down it and basically got nothing out. When I pulled the tube out there was just a bit of fluid on the side of the tube. So I removed the lower plug and stuck the tube in there and essentially the same. The T20 was essentially dry, just a splash on the internals, so hopefully it hasn't be ran much like that. I poured in a quart of an ATF/limited slip additive mix and it just barely started dribbling out the bottom hole, so it was empty and now set right where it needs to be. Most the chains were pretty good, but a few were a bit loose. Wasn't much trouble tightening them up. I was surprised how few turns of the adjustment bolts it took to put them into tension, then of course backed them off a smidgen for proper slack.
I got the choke hooked up, but it required flipping the choke rod to the other side of the carb because I couldn't get the bracket to fit with throttle cable bracket. The universal choke cable from the auto parts store is too short, so for now I'm just running it out of the engine bay when I out the top shell down, but the key point is it'll work. I got the impulse and fuel line hooked up properly as well.
I was looking more at the switch panel location and I think I am good with it to the left of the seat. I was looking at the left dash panel location and I'd have to move the Ammeter over if I wanted to fit it there.
If I put it right where the duct tape is I think it's would sit clear of me accidentally bumping it with my leg. I pretty much put my hip on the edge of the seat but with how my legs go into the front it steers clear of the side.
I haven't wired it in, but looking closer at the pocket on the dash there was already a crack/hole on the side of it, so it looks like a plan is coming together there.
Big day today, got it fired up and for the bit it ran it sounded healthy.
I mixed up some more oil/fuel to be sure there was plenty of gas, gave it a few cranks with the choke set and promptly flooded it. I determined I had the throttle blades closed too far, coincidentally today I received a USB bore scope camera for my cellphone so I took the opportunity and removed the carb and spark plugs to air it out and inspect it. Looks like the piston tops have seen better day, not really sure if it's detonation or debris, but either way I'm not overly worried about it going forward and will let it ride. The inside of the ports and in the block are perfectly clean.
After the inspection I put the carb and plugs back on, dialed up the idle screw a hair and it fired right up! Started smoking up the garage pretty quickly and went to shut it down and found the toggle switch on the dash I was trusting didn't shut the engine off! So I pulled the negative battery cable off the battery, which didn't do anything either! Put it back on and got a pair of pliers and pulled the spark plug wires off the plugs! I looked around and found a fuse wired up under the dash so I fired it up again and pulled the fuse, which I suppose unsurprisingly did nothing. So I pulled the plug wires again. I did notice the ammeter works though. I plan on a full re-wire, but in the mean time I need to look up what wires should be connected to the toggle switch to shut it down.
The left piston.
Right piston.
Both skirts show expected wear/damage after seeing the piston tops. Again, I'm not going to do anything about it.
Clean ports.
Under the pistons, inside the block looked brand new.
Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to take it down the driveway and back to see how the T-20 is.
Found the wire that shuts the engine off! It was even connected to the plug for the missing ignition key. Grounded the black wire leaving the plug and it shut right down. Now I can get to adjusting the carb needles and see if I can drive it out of the garage and back.
Took a short video of the 2-stroke running. I flooded it right before this from trying to start it with the spark plug wires removed, so the plugs might need to be cleaned, but it runs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdqFWT7fJJo
Sounds good to me. Love those 2 smokes !!
Had some success this weekend and it moved under it's own power but I think the easy honeymoon is over as it doesn't have reverse on the left side and the driven clutch I think needs to come apart.
It definitely takes some getting used to balancing the throttle and control sticks to keep from either revving it to the moon or stalling it, but I think that will come with time. It moves forward well enough but I only have reverse on the right side, which is a bummer.
I checked the linkage adjustments, and both top and bottom on both sides are right at 11/16" from the case, and the plungers on all 4 pull out to just flush with the case when pulled to their maximums. I tried tightening up the lower left plunger a couple threads to see if reverse would grab, but didn't get anything out of it. I tried to remove the diamond shifter, but it has a nice clip in groove lock and my clip pliers are away in storage. I don't suspect anything with the pin since I have forward, but also don't know quite enough to say for sure. My current guess is the anchor pin for the band has come loose. I'm going to start a thread in the Transmission section for more troubleshooting exposure.
Then the driven clutch. It seems either the spring isn't locked into the place it should be or it broke, though I did not find a broken edge. Thoughts? I'm probably pulling the T-20 anyways and will be removing this anyways, so but am I looking at simply assembling it correctly? Getting a new spring? Or needing a new driven clutch assembly? Here are a few pictures.
The spring actually got caught on one of the teeth.
the snap ring on the cam side of the clutch either slipped out of the groove or failed an allowed the spring to unwind. there should be space between the cam and the sprocket on the T-20.
Acta non verba
Thanks for the direction! I'll see if I can compress it and look for the clip groove. Then see what to do about getting the spring back into place. Will probably have to remove the assembly I'm sure. Thanks again!Originally Posted by jerseybigfoot
**edit, the more I think about it, I'm thinking I may have upset the clip when I was wiggling things around with a pry bar to make sure nothing was seized up before starting it. I'll check for it in the tub.
Last edited by TheSilverBuick; 03-13-2017 at 02:59 PM.
For the T20, I doubt the anchor pin came loose. I think it would be more likely that the pin on the diamond shifter is broken/worn. When that happens, it will stay in whatever gear it was in (F/N/R) and not shift at all. The diamond shifter will move fine but nothing will happen internally. Pull those pliers out of storage and pop the diamond shifter out before trying anything else.
My only concern about it possibly not being the pin is it does go between neutral and forward still.
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