MAX_FAB 1996 Max II Build Thread

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Thread: MAX_FAB 1996 Max II Build Thread

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Taneytown,MD
    Posts
    98
    You have quite the project there it will be fun and frustrating getting it together. When I got my Max I tore it apart and went trough it. There were things I should have replaced and didn't. My advice if its in question replace it it will save you in the long run. As far as getting the seals out I use a bar called a crows foot its about 10" long and has a hook on one and a center punch point on the other it works good. I bought from Snap on tools about 30 yrs. ago. If you hook under the seal and pull down gently against the bearing and work your way around it should come out. Have fun.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    48
    Great pictures. I purchased a 1988 model Max II. I replaced ALL sprockets, ALL chain, bearings, bushings, wiring, LED headlights, made front and rear racks, made a windshield, added flashers, had tubes put in tires and added two winches and finally replaced motor. Was a 16HP found 23HP same price. So now have a 23HP Briggs. AND I STILL HAVE LESS IN IT THAN A NEW ONE. New last time I checked was $10,000. Plus the fun of rebuilding. GOOD LUCK !

  3. #13
    Max Fab
    a little over a year ago I overhauled my Max II, I beat it pretty hard and blew the T20 and it sat for years. so I finally got around to doing a frame out rebuild, T20, engine mods, all new sprockets, chains, bearings, T20 split shifter and supports, etc etc. I would guess I have about 2500 total in the rebuild and it was worth every penny, plus I know every inch of the machine now.

    I have pictures and some threads on where I purchased stuff from under my user name, Good luck and IMO do not go cheap, buy quality, buy once. play for a long time afterwards.

    I did my T20 first and that was when just before Max was bought by Mudd-ox I ordered my bearing, seal and gasket set from them, My drums were marginal and I had to have a couple of them turned down, I should have had them machined, rigging them and adjusting the bands would have been easier. worth a rebuild

    Larry
    Last edited by garretttpe; 03-26-2017 at 08:08 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    shenendoah valley,va.
    Posts
    2,631
    if you don't want to buy new axles... but the sprocket holes are worn, you can use a 2 piece clamping collar to hold the sprocket tight to the axle. just clamp the collar on the axle next to the sprocket then weld only one half of the collar to the sprocket. ( that way you can still loosen the collar to remove the sprocket if need be ) i've done this on my max 2 axles and it added alot of strength. hope this helps. johnboy va.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hanover,PA
    Posts
    1,012
    Good idea there Johnboy ! Where did you get the collar's ?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    shenendoah valley,va.
    Posts
    2,631
    you can get them from mcmaster carr co. online. make sure they are the 2 piece.......and the right i.d. for the axle size. they clamp on really strong. j.b.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Taneytown,MD
    Posts
    98
    The collars johnboy is talking about are called shaft collars. I have used these on other things and they work great. I got them from McMaster Carr also they have a big selection in just about any size you need

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