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I have now have almost completely disassembled the machine, much to my dismay every time I go to install a new part I have found issues with something else. So I figure I might as well fix it right! So I have to replace all of the inner bronze bushings and stub shafts, the old ones are extremely worn out and the move quite a bit while riding. So, in lieu of doing that I decided to replace them with a 62mm Cast Iron bearing ordered from Buffalo Bearing per another users suggestion. Does anyone have any tips for doing this? Am I going to need anything other than the bearing and flange? I was going to take an new bushing, put it into an axel and us that axel as a template on the stub shaft in order to know where to drill the holes in the frame for the new inner bearings.
Any tips would be appreciated, I also am having an issues with the new Jackshaft sprocket I received from Richard’s, When I slide the ¾ shaft inside of the jackshaft it sticks and will not spin. Does this usually mean the shaft is bent?
Finally, I believe the machine may have an issue with my clutch because it was having issues pulling uphill before this rebuild. Does anyone have some advice on a clutch rebuild or to just purchase a new one?
Thanks As Always!
Last edited by Mitchman2834; 08-22-2017 at 12:52 PM.
Mitchman, here are a couple of thoughts. I don't have a Max machine, so my comments are general:
Regarding your new inner bearings, be sure your sprockets will still line up once the upgrade is complete. If your sprockets are pinned in place with a bolt through the axle, then you don't want the bearing to change the axle position as it will affect the sprocket alignment....unless you can redrill the sprockets or otherwise compensate for the axle alignment. This may not be a problem whatsoever, just be aware that changing things can change sprocket alignment.
Next, regarding the jackshaft sprocket, I guess the shaft could be bent or rusty. Or have a ding that is hanging on the sprocket. Take the shaft and roll it on a flat surface. It its bent you will see it wobble.
Machine not pulling uphill - This could be several things. First, you need to make sure to put adequate forward pressure on the laterals so that they in turn apply proper tension to the bands inside the transmission. Otherwise, the transmission may slip. Next, you need to check the adjustment of your plunger bolts. There are four plunger bolts in the transmission that are part of the linkage to the steering laterals. There are other threads that provide instructions as to how to adjust (it's not hard at all). You could have issues with the clutch / belt setup if the belt is too loose, worn such that its too narrow, or even the wrong clutch on the engine (2 stroke clutch on a 4 stroke engine). You could also have worn-out bands inside the transmission....which means time for an overhaul.
I just replaced the bushings on mine, wish I had done bearings. I would think you could slip the bearing on and slide the shaft back on normally, drill your mount holes (using the pillow block/bearing housing as a stencil) and bolt her in. On a max I’d check your belt first of all things. Mine was weak too till I bought a new one. I like to have mine set a little tight so the tranny spins when in neutral, so it warms up the oil as well in the cold, and doesn’t cause friction on the belt from idling with a clutch not turning. It won’t pull away on its own at idle, so it’s still plenty loose enough.
Flush that t20 with dextrin mercron atf, if what comes out is gear lube, you gone have issues. Gear lube eats the lining off the bands. Mine was ok after the flush, but definable make sure that **** isn’t in there.
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