MAX IV axle upgrades/brakes- please set me straight!

[Lazy Hiker]

Life had me take a detour on my MAX IV rebuild, but now I'm back!

Vintage (1988) MAX IV with hollow axles and frozen sprockets- please set me straight.

I'm replacing just about everything in the running gear since it's either rusted and seized or completely worn. I see my two choices as:

1) making a slight upgrade to solid axles, new bearings (possibly Argos) and new sprockets.

-or-

2) Upgrading to splined axles, new bearings (again, possible Argos), and new sprockets.

I know that splined would be the "smarter" choice, but would this mean that I would also have to change to disk brakes, or is there a way to use my current band brake/hub setup? I can't find a splined sproket with hub for band brakes (and I can't weld either).

What are others doing? Suggestions?

[msafi65]

Typically on an older IV rebuild I suggest installing the splined rear axles with new sprockets as a minimum. This eliminates the through bolts under the engine(pitb). Solid axles elsewhere with the gear tubes repaired at the bolt holes, if sprockets are usable. As I recall there were no spline axle drum brake vehicles produced. The disc brake calipers and other parts to upgrade are spendy. If you did want all spline axles with drum brakes I'm sure someone would remove your old drums and weld on to a spline sprocket. Hope this cleared up some issues for you.

[Lazy Hiker]

Excellent idea! I hadn't considered mixing splined and solid fit the need of the brakes...

The existing sprockets are too worn to be woth the trouble to reuse, as well as being frozen to the axles. I'll be replacing all sprockets anyways, and this should make it easier. Not interested on switching brake styles as from what I understand, niether type is very effective.

I think I'll go with splined in the rear and center, and solid in the front.


Thanks again!

[msafi65]

That works. The inner bearing for spline axles is a different # than the standard inner.

[Lazy Hiker]

Ok...thanks. I'll make sure that I buy the correct bearings according to the axles.

[Noel Woods]

I agree with the mix of splined and solids, its the best way to go to save a penny. Also the brakes on these machines are marginal to begin with, and I've found it doesn't make much difference if they are drums or discs.

The t20 is the best brake unit you can have anyway, easy to manipulate and once you get the hang of working the levers, it just feels right.

Good luck on the restore.