Rear inside sprocket stripped the teeth off. I think it's the main drive sprocket. Is this something a noob can change or should I take it somewhere and have it done? I figure I'll change out the chains while I'm at it.
Rear inside sprocket stripped the teeth off. I think it's the main drive sprocket. Is this something a noob can change or should I take it somewhere and have it done? I figure I'll change out the chains while I'm at it.
1998 Max IV 20hp Kohler Command 26" Tires
Well, in theory should be straightforward, but the axle normally freezes to the sproket tube. I don't know what year machine you have, but the axle will be locked to the bearings somehow, and the sprocket will either have snap rings on either side (Splined) or have a bolt throught the sprocked tube (old style round axles). The splined axles have a bolt on the inside of the inner bearing that threads down the center of the axle, (Pointed towards the outside) If you have splined axles, make sure you get this one. Once the bearings are unlocked, the center bolt is removed and the snap rings are removed (Splined) or bolt throught the tube (standard round axle) it SHOULD slide out. If your SUPER lucky, it will. Otherwise the sprocket tube will be stuck, but since your changing it anyway, just cut it off with a Die-Grinder or right-angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Just try not to cut to the axle. PB Blaster should help if it's sticking to the bearings too, and a slide hammer is wonderful help too. I would check ALL your sprockets to see if any of the others are pointy or damaged, best to change all that are going at once and get it over with. Good Luck!
OH, if you have to go heavy with a slide hammer, change the bearings. They are not made to take that heavy of a side load, and the races will be marred. They will become gritty and wear quickly, so since they are cheap enough, do them while its apart the first time. You can unbolt the flange for the outer bearing so you only are pulling the axle out of the inner bearing also, if they are that stuck. And 3M Strip caulk will seal up the flange better than new when you put the outter flange back on.
Last edited by 6X6; 11-08-2008 at 12:55 AM.
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Does anyone know where I could get work done on my Max IV close to Tamaqua, PA 18252 ? Any help would be appreciated.
1998 Max IV 20hp Kohler Command 26" Tires
I'm just south of Pittsburgh PA if you're up for the drive.
The older model sprockets on splined axles have 2 set screws, one under the other. You need to get goth of them out.
Also, if you have individual sprockets, you will want to upgrade to the double sprockets on both sides along with the snap ring axles.
I just did all of this a few months ago, so its fresh in my head. You can call Recreatives and get some more information and prices from them.
That is an extremely generous offer that I wish I could take you up on. Unfortunately I have no trailer and that is the reason I'm trying to find a place that works on them locally. Thank you again, that is truly above and beyond the call of duty. This really is the best 6x6 site with the best people.Originally Posted by liflod
1998 Max IV 20hp Kohler Command 26" Tires
About what did it run you for the entire conversion?
1998 Max IV 20hp Kohler Command 26" Tires
More than I wanted to spend
Call Recreatives and get a price.
I used my existing axles without the snap ring grooves and used split locking collars to keep the sprockets in place. You can groove your axles for the snap rings if you want, but it was easier for me to use the split collars.
Just ordered all the stuff to repair my Max IV from Richards Relics. What a help he is to find out what you need. These toys are expensive but he helped get me the parts to do it right for the least cost. Thanks for recommending Richard. Got better prices from him than from Recreatives Ind.
1998 Max IV 20hp Kohler Command 26" Tires
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