Doing my bearings, not going really well

[cwilliams]

Of course I didn't realize why I thought there were three set screws. There are, since this is the middle wheel with 2 sprockets and the end bearing. Two of them came out and of course the middle one has already twisted a snapon allen socket. I used a longer one since you can fit the socket between the chains but it twisted.

Tried heating it and kroil and the problem is I am running out of tools. A regular L shaped one isn't going to do it. I have a craftsman short socket but it wont fit with the chains on. I was hoping if I removed the tensioners it would let me get the chains off but that didn't work.

I found the master link but have no experience with chains, I got the clip off but Ican't even press the piece out?

I THINK if I can slip the chains off the sprocket and heat it again and use an actual socket that I might be able to get it off.

Any tips on getting the master link out once the clip is off?

What really sucks is that I am doing all this and I still have the actually get the axle out!

[hydromike]

When you're working on getting the master link apart, do you have slack in the chain, or are they tight like a banjo string? Loosen them up a bit first, then after the clip is off there's nothing holding it together except friction and spite. They don't need to be "pressed" apart, but they can be ornery. You can try tapping on the pins a bit to see if it'll come out. Typically the side plate is what sticks on the pins, and they come out with a little work.


After the chain is off, you're on the right track with the set screws. Keep trying heat and some penetrating oil. They can be stubborn. Worse-case scenario, you may end up needing a left handed drill bit to get it out of there. The set screws are darn hard, though. If you end up spinning a standard (SAE) size allen wrench in the set screw, you can step up to a metric and tap it in for a tight fit. A lot of times, heat, oil and a good smack with a hammer on the setscrew (with either a long allen socket or a small pin-punch) will help to free it up.


Keep trying...

[cwilliams]

I actually tried something else. I knocked out the allen bit fro my craftsman 3/8" socket and had a 1/4" socket that holds a 1/4" bit. I heated the allen screw again for a minute or two with a heat gun with a pinpoint tip and set it to 1100 degrees. It made awful cracking noises as I turned it but it actually came out! So at this point I am have all 3 set screws out of the axle. I am picking up a sliding hammer later today since the axle didn't seem to move much by pulling it and I sprayed some kroil on the axle to help it, doesn't look rusted just gummed up.

I never could get the master link out which is bizarre, I wish I had the little press just since Im sur it would just push out.

Hopefully it will come out and I can replace the bearing. I am not sure that I want to re-use those set screws.

[milkman5687]

I also had a hard time getting two of the master links off my machine. I used a degreaser to get the junk out of the pins/rollers and then kept a good lube on them and worked the side plate of with 2 small flatheads...

[ARGOJIM]

Oring master links are a pain both off and on. 2 flatheads work good. Hopefully it's off now, if not don't be scared of it just try not to kill the orings.

[msafi65]

I modified a pair of vice grips to fit over the roller and press out 1 pin at a time. Usually can't get the tsubaki Oring chain apart without tools. Need to reinstall the side plate with vice grips also. I use the vice grips because a chain breaker dosent fit in some of the tight places. I think the chain will have to be off to reassemble the center axle.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Neat idea modifying the vice grips to push out the pin. I might have to do this too. Thanks for sharing.

[cwilliams]

So once I realized that there was a bolt at the end of my axle holding it on once I got all the allens out things got a lot better! Still needed a slide hammer but it came right out and I could see that the bearing must be letting water in since it is shot.

I couldn't get it off the axle so I cut it and when it was close I split it with a chisel and no axle damage and I can see the bearing must have been never lubed

So I am only on my first of 2 axles to do but I think the second will go easier.

So I am at the stage where I have the correct bearing and collar but for the seal to the inner body... I am not sure why silicone would not work, doesn't look like I need much but do you have any input on this? Strip caulk seems good but I wont be able to get any today and I really would like to keep going.

Thanks

[johnnova]

not sure if silicone would work on the seal between the body and flangettes. I used the caulking for installing windshields its a lot thicker but it was easy to get from the autoparts store, a 15ft roll did all six wheels with some left over. I used silicone in between the flangettes on the paper gasket both sides just try not to go overboard because it will fill up the space the grease needs to pass thru. I am pretty new to this also but I am sure others will have some great ideas too.

[milkman5687]

I used a thin bead of white silicon caulk on mine, works good.