Bearing Change

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Thread: Bearing Change

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    2,968
    The bearings that I had an issue with were Peer brand, but these were small, 1" diameter bearings. They were middle of the road in price. The Max VIII came with all Peer bearings as the inners. I have two Peer outers, and I ordered their "equivalents" on line from thebigbearingstore.com. I THOUGHT they were shipping me Peers, but instead sent me KMLs. At $11 a piece, I won't complain until they're field tested.

    I have to go back down to RI tomorrow, and I'm sure they'll give me some Peer units for the last couple bearings I'm lacking. I've had a lot of luck with the Timken-Fafnir units for a lot of machines, but they really go up in cost quickly. The only issue I've had with the Peer units on Big 5 were the locking collars. Lots and lots of time in the water, mud, ice and the bearings themselves held up well. I don't think they're a bad brand by any stretch. RI wouldn't be putting them on machines unless they're a proven quantity.

    ~m

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Northwest Pa
    Posts
    69
    I put KMLs in my max II when I replaced bearings this summer. They have held up really well thus far with probably 60 hard hours on them in swamp and now lovely snow and ice. Can't beat the price, but I'll keep my eye on them and see how long they last with proper care and let you guys know.
    The feat of sinking a max is a badge of honor.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New Brunswick,Canada
    Posts
    461
    This is all great information folks.This guy I am dealing with is a pretty straight shooter.At work I buy bearings from him for electric motors,have for years.He is actually a bearing distributor.I think if he thought I would be better off with more expensive bearings he would take the extra money.I wish bearings were rated good,bad and ugly for simplicity.He doesn't stock them and I won't order until I show him a bearing.My experience with automotive is one guy swears by a certain brand and the next guy swears at it.He is in the know enough to know right off roughly what I was doing with them.He might be extending me wholesale price and a discount on the 18.He also deals in bulk o-ring chain etc.A low overhead operation with the best prices in my region.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
    Posts
    7,788
    Thanks for the clarification hydromike! Sorry to mislead anyone, I thought the cheaper Chinese bearings were the ones having problems. I didn't realize it was the Peer bearings.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    2,968
    No, I think my Peers WERE made in China.... I didn't want to make the direct connection that Chinese products are always junk. Not always the case. My HC207-20 units for the Max VIII are KMLs, and don't have any markings on them whatsoever. I don't necessarily like the appearance of the outer seals, but they could be great. I'll give them a run, and see what comes of the abuse.

    ~m

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
    Posts
    7,788
    Mike, you are correct. The Peer bearings are made in China. I was saying before (wrongly) that the cheaper Chinese bearings were the ones with problems. I didn't realize it was the Peer bearings, what I think of as more of a quality Chinese bearing.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New Brunswick,Canada
    Posts
    461
    As Hydromike has indicated a lot of quality stuff is coming from China now.We don't like to admit it but much of it is made by North American companies that have relocated their factories there and are manufacturing using tried and proven methods.Over the years,not everything manufactured here was a smashing success either.With the great exception of amphibians,of course.

  8. #18
    It is important to have perfectly straight axles with your cage setup. You can check at the point when you are just snug on reassembly to see if your cages wobble when you turn the axle. I just did a few on my Buffalo and found that the axles I bought had a bit of wobble and I chose to leave the cages off. You need them on since you are running tracks. If you make any you definitely should pay extra for the closer tolerance material. I'm assuming that a bearing will wear much faster if the axle isn't nice and straight.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New Brunswick,Canada
    Posts
    461
    Well I finally got up enough courage to start the bearing change.I am having a hard time.I'm on my first axle(front right),stripped the allen screw for the brake disc and had to drill it out but I think a machine shop can save the disc.The eccentric locking collars are a puzzle.Absolutely no way of knowing which way they turn.Got the outermost off with a punch in an air chisel but the other two don't seem to turn no matter which way.Should the locking collars be so tough or am I missing something?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New Brunswick,Canada
    Posts
    461
    News Flash: I figured out the locking collars.I didn't realize that they didn't really screw out like a nut but rather simply unlock and then it slides back away from the bearing.Everything is free now and I am preparing to try to pull the axle.Just now I'm in the school of hard knocks but I am anxious to conquer bearing installation as well as have the benefit of new bearings installed.

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