1997 max II help

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Thread: 1997 max II help

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    vernon, AL
    Posts
    19
    I called RI today and found out that my maxII 600t is a 97 model and got some clarification on the bearings. From 94 to 99 RI made maxII's with bushings and the stub shaft but also on those years used the larger 72mm bearings. So, needless to say, I was relieved that I didn't get mislead by the seller

    So, I ordered a set of bearings, set of bushings, and all new flanges from buffalo bearing today that came up to a total of $166.78, which i didn't think was too bad for all that stuff, and they were very helpful. I'm really hope everything goes smoothly with the bearing replacement as this will be a first for me.

    Question: Will pb blaster hurt the plastic body of the max? Just wana make sure cuz I've been pouring it to those sprocket tubes. Also, i'm on the verge of buying richards nylon chain adjusters, but REALLY hate to pay that much.....so, would a bolt with a homemade piece of roller on it attached the original adjuster frame serve the same purpose, or do the adjusters have to be able to move while the max is in motion? Are richards adjusters stationary once you get the chain deflection right and tighten them down? thanks

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
    Posts
    2,604
    price sounds good.

    i have yet to find a chemical that will hurt the poly tub, so use all the pb blaster you can!!!

    here is my bushing replacement procedure copy and pasted from another thread :
    i put the axle in a vice, then took a small wood working chisel and hammered it between the axle and bushing. the bushing is way softer than the axle and will shatter/ crumble in on it's self. going back together, i threw the new bushings in the freezer over night. clean out the end of the axle and warm it up with a propane torch. wipe some grease on a frozen bushing and tap it into the axle. use a piece of scrap wood between the bushing and hammer so you aren't hitting the bushing directly. once the bushing is in, drill a hole through the axle and bushing, and tap to 1/4- 28. clean up the inside of the hole so there are no burrs. clean up/ polish the 3/4 solid stock that the bushing rides on. assemble the flange, bearing, flange on the axle and push it through the body and sprocket tube, then screw a grease fitting into the 1/4-28 hole (i used 90* fittings on most of mine). finish installing the axles, then grease. on the right rear, the motor mount bold got in the way of the grease zerk, so i just moved it a little further out on the axle. the downfall is that i had to pump the entire axle full of grease before any comes out the bushing, but it works.



    the adjusters do not "float". the adjusters that richard's sells are built of a piece of "unistrut" you can get it and the nuts for it from McMaster-Carr if you have any fabricating skills and a welder, you can build 20 adjusters for what Richard charges for a pair. on the roller, you want it to have a steel sleeve through the center for the bolt to tighten onto so that the roller will roll. these are the ones i built for my hustler for an example

    Quote Originally Posted by racerone3 View Post
    here are my finished rollers. ended up only needing to go 0.004 bigger on the I.D. of the Roller than the O.D. of the bung to get them to roll nice and smooth. Shawn (my "work for beer" machinist) is working on getting a price per unit for those interested in a set. I had to pay for the stick of Delrin ($67 for 14 inches) and he did the work for me. we are also going to look at other materials for both price, and function reasons although i think the Delrin is going to work out really well.



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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    vernon, AL
    Posts
    19
    thanks racerone, thats really helpful info.

    If you are familiar with the design of the stock max II adjusters, do you think that if I removed the part that the chain lays on (just leaving the tower that it slides up/down on) and fastened a 3" carriage bolt to the tower, then slid on a steel sleeve with a nylon roller followed by a locking nut, that it would work? The only reason I ask before just tryin it myself is that I assume someone has already tried this as it seems to be too easy, so there must be some reason why it won't work. So why not save myself some trouble if at all possible.

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