price sounds good.
i have yet to find a chemical that will hurt the poly tub, so use all the pb blaster you can!!!
here is my bushing replacement procedure copy and pasted from another thread :
i put the axle in a vice, then took a small wood working chisel and hammered it between the axle and bushing. the bushing is way softer than the axle and will shatter/ crumble in on it's self. going back together, i threw the new bushings in the freezer over night. clean out the end of the axle and warm it up with a propane torch. wipe some grease on a frozen bushing and tap it into the axle. use a piece of scrap wood between the bushing and hammer so you aren't hitting the bushing directly. once the bushing is in, drill a hole through the axle and bushing, and tap to 1/4- 28. clean up the inside of the hole so there are no burrs. clean up/ polish the 3/4 solid stock that the bushing rides on. assemble the flange, bearing, flange on the axle and push it through the body and sprocket tube, then screw a grease fitting into the 1/4-28 hole (i used 90* fittings on most of mine). finish installing the axles, then grease. on the right rear, the motor mount bold got in the way of the grease zerk, so i just moved it a little further out on the axle. the downfall is that i had to pump the entire axle full of grease before any comes out the bushing, but it works.
the adjusters do not "float". the adjusters that richard's sells are built of a piece of "unistrut" you can get it and the nuts for it from McMaster-Carr if you have any fabricating skills and a welder, you can build 20 adjusters for what Richard charges for a pair. on the roller, you want it to have a steel sleeve through the center for the bolt to tighten onto so that the roller will roll. these are the ones i built for my hustler for an example
Originally Posted by
racerone3
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